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Thread: razor burn

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    Member jjs1235's Avatar
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    Default razor burn

    Hey guys,
    After milling around this website for about two months, and shaving with a straight (DOVO 5/8 from Tony's package deals) for about a month, I am looking for some suggestions about razor burn. I can get a nice smooth shave with three passes, but my face is all burned up for the following day. Normal pre-shave routine includes hot shower, hot washcloth on the face for a few minutes, T&H pre-shave oil, and either T&H shave cream or whatever soap that Tony sent with the package, Trumpers coral skin food. I strop, I've honed, but cant get it to pass the HHT. Am I doing something wrong, or is it just overly sensitive skin? Anybody experiencing the same problems??

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    Member AFDavis11's Avatar
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    Nope, your doing something wrong. But your only mistake is shaving with a razor that does not pass the hanging hair test. In other words the razor isn't sharp enough. I assume you will focus additional questions in this thread on sharpening, but there are a few other things you can do, none of which are really effective compared to improving the edge. One, you can wipe the blade with alcohol before use, this helps with razor burn (why I don't know). Two, you could probably improve your stropping. Does the razor drag at all when you strop? Look at some stropping technique threads. Keep in mind that you should work on improving your technique even if your doing it right. Third, thicken your cream. Just don't make it some quick drying stuff, just less watery. Forth, three passes? Why not cut back to two? Well I'll tell you this, I get razor burn after the 6th pass, regardless of blade sharpness. Don't ask why I've done 6 passes, I won't do it again.

    All this is just fun and games compared to a really sharp blade, properly stropped. So what do you have to sharpen a blade with? How comfortable are you with your stropping technique?

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    Junior Member jon_h_2268's Avatar
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    I agree, your goal should be to get your razor as sharp as possible, and, for now, cut back to two passes. once a week go for the full three passes. if you use more pressure to cut the hair, the greater the chance of removing more skin thus the razor burn. so use a sharper razor, spend less time on the skin with less pressure and the razor burn should diminish or dissapear. you will naturally have to adjust your technique to continue to get the glass like finish, but once you get it you will be impressed with what you can do with 3+ passes if you want.

    good luck

    Jon in Cambridge Ontario.

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    Member jjs1235's Avatar
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    THanks for the info, In regards to stropping, I think I doing fine in that category. THere is draw with the passes and I'm making the x pattern while stropping. Honing - using the norton 4/8. Based on the videos i've seen and reading other guys' posts, i think i'm doing it right. I've noticed that after 2 days growth that I dont get the burn..... I will probably wind up sending it off to Lynn for a good sharpening then we'll see what happens

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    Face nicker RichZ's Avatar
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    I find 2 passes works fine for me. In fact I have even gone with one pass after Lynn sharpened my razor for me.

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    Member AFDavis11's Avatar
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    Well if you've got the Norton and your getting draw then anything could be happening because it should be sharp enough to atleast not get razor burn...

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    Member AFDavis11's Avatar
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    I'm assuming your familiar with what an overhoned razor feels like???? Do you have a microscope?

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    Senior Member Joe Lerch's Avatar
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    It seems like your razor is not sharp enough. You should not get razor burn with a sharp razor, unless you have a technique problem.

    Razor burn results from abrasion. You can get skin sensitivity with a sharp razor but not razor burn. The sensitivity comes from shaving off a little skin and exposing sensitive skin.

    Technique problems arise in three areas: excessive razor pressure, an excessive blade angle, and aggressive shaving. The pressure should be as light as possible, just enough to cut. The spine of the the blade should be about 2 spine widths above the skin. Large angle make the blade act like a scraper.

    That brings us to aggressiveness. I wouldn't worry as much about the number of passes as how aggressive they are. Don't try to cut down to skin on the early passes. Don't worry about what you're leaving on your face as long as you're down to a fine stubble by the time you start the 3rd pass. Learn the grain of your beard and make sure you do with and across the grain passes first. Go against or partly against the grain only on the 3rd pass, and then do it with as light a touch as possible. Don't shave over a spot after you've shaved off the lather.

    Think gentle. If you're feeling discomfort while you're shaving you either have poor lubrication or are being too aggressive. Shaving should feel smooth with no drag.

    I find that oil on long whiskers is counterproductive. It makes them slippery and hard to shave. But when you're down to that fine stubble, there's nothing to become slippery and the oil protects the skin. So, apply the oil for the 3rd pass.

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    I say less passes, sharp razor, go easy--not too much pressure, and use an astringent--witch hazel works very well.

    Try the witch hazel

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    More tips: Don't give in to the temptation to shave over an area that you just shaved and that doesn't have any soap or cream on it. The only time I'll do this is when I'm almost done shaving and I've shaved the lather off my face, I'll wet my fingers and go over my face checking for unshaven areas. When I find an area that needs a little "finishing" there'll be just enough soap (and water from my fingers) left that I won't have to lather again and a touch up with the razor is all that's needed. Typically this is under my chin and in the concave region under my mandible (jaw), on the side of my neck.
    There is also kind of an art to knowing how wet to have your lather. At first I had a tendancy to have my lather a little too dry. I sometimes keep my brush in my left hand (I'm right handed) while I'm shaving and immediately lather over areas I just shaved to keep them moist for another pass. And to keep my lather wet I'll run a couple of drops of water on my brush and re-lather areas on my face that look like they're drying up. The magic word here is lubrication. Give your razor a smooooothhhhh foundation to glide over so it can cut the hair without doing the same to your face.

    Tom

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