Thread: When should I incorporate a different pass?

I have been shaving with a straight for a few months. I have about 20 or so shaves under my belt. I still get a few weepers, but for the most part, blood is not part of my regular shave routine. I have been doing only 2 passes N-S, but lately I have noticed that my shave is getting very decent after one pass and the second pass is more of a touch up. I could probably get by with just some spot touch up and call it a day if i were in a hurry. After 2 N-S passes, I have a '270 degree bbs' shave. If i rub directly against the grain, i can feel stubble. Other than that, it is a DFS or better. My shaves leave very little irritation and I am pretty pleased with myself. I am thinking about moving onto a S-N pass, or maybe ATG (my grain runs sideways), but i am not sure where to start. Should i even bother changing my routine? I am sure i would get a better shave, but would it be worth it? I am not sure how i would start to learn the next pass? Maybe start with only a small fraction of my face and build from there? I attempted the S-N pass tonight and put a nice red line in my neck, so i decided that it would be better to end the shave and call it good enough. Sometimes, when you shave, you don't know you've done enough, until you've done too much.

The bottom line of whether you need another pass is to try it out. Try adding a XTG pass after the first WTG pass and see if that works out for you. Personally, I noticed a huge difference in my shaves just with the addition of that XTG pass.

It sounds like my beard grows like yours and for about four months, I did a WTG and then an ATG figuring that the ATG was actually a XTG based on growth. I can tell you that I was wrong and that the XTG pass is about 80% as effective as an ATG pass with none of the irritation.

For my XTG pass, I don't worry about the center of the face, only from the corner of the mouth down and back. After I lather up, I place the razor at the corner of the mouth and go toward the ear. After that, repeat until you get to the top of the sideburn.

You'll just have to try it out. If you've never gone across or against the grain then definitely try a specific area, like your cheek(s), first to see if there is any irritation and then go from there.

I do two passes; first WTG and then XTG. My face can't handle going ATG but these two passes do me just fine.

There's a nice illustrated wiki article that goes over different techniques to use when doing XTG and/or ATG:
Shaving passes - Straight Razor Place Wiki

Good luck!

Helle, thecornerbooth:

I suggest trying all three basic passes and evaluating the benefits of each. Since you know your facial structure, beard growth and razor technique, you are the best judge for yourself. You might want to improvise around the three passes.

In the end, you might decide that one complete with the grain pass and another using elements from across the grain and against the grain are ideal for you. Perhaps that one pass with the grain is all you need for your daily shave. Reserve the second improvisatory pass for special occasions.

Improvise and experiment — always with care — until you settle on your own pattern. Also, follow Commiecat's advice and look up the link he provides.

In straight razor shaving, except for some basic techniques and obvious realities, you make your own rules. After all, it is your razor, your face, your shave. Embrace your shaving ritual by putting your own personal stamp on it.

Regards,
Obie

I was trying to incorporate a second pass ATG this week, and my skin didn't like it. So yesterday evening, I came back to a single pass WTG but well done, and my face appreciated it, and it was a pretty decent shave.

So one pass WTG is good enough for my type of sensitive skin with a straight. I just watch for some spots where some hairs could be left and go slightly in another direction. I also can go lightly ATG under the skin to finish it.

So I'm back to basics and it works.

It could be the same for you.

Gilles

It's a difficult subject because everybody is different. The idea is to do the least you have to just like honing. If you are happy with a shave derived from 1 WTG pass then stop there. If you need the XTG use that where you have to and if you need ATG do that where you need it. If you're starting with any new routine experiment and just do a small area and see what happens, how your face tolerates it. it may take a while to get used to it.

+1 on thebigspendur's advice. There is no str8 razor mandate which states that you must shave WTG, XTG and ARG everytime you shave--or do so on every area of your face to get a close, comfortable shave. For me, WTG on my face and XTG on certain areas (ie. the jawline) are sufficient. On days when I'm not rushed, I'll do an ATG pass on my neck.

Just my 2 cents.

N-S is working well for you. I do the same and go for BBS on the XTG/ATG pass and get it. Lets just say its BBS or Nada for me.

I guess its up to you as to what works best for you.

S-N may not be what you are hoping for.

Pabster