Thread: some help please?

Hi everyone,

I apologize in advance if you think these questions have already been answered...I've been through SRP's forums for months before buying my first straight razor and read extensively on all aspects of using a straight razor. As I approach month 3 of using my straight razor, I keep having the same problems:

1. Getting close, comfortable shaves on the philtrum, and in the hollows along my adams apple. On my first pass (WTG), I get tips of the hair, but never am able to get a truly smooth surface.

2. Knowing if my razor is sharp enough. I bought it from a knife store shave ready, and have been using a Bismarck leather and linen strop everyday before and after use. Still, the razor has never passed the hanging hair test (and, as far as I can tell, the shave test). I don't know if this is because of my technique or if it needs to be sharpened/honed.

3. Buying a hone. I'd like to buy the hones I need to keep the razor shave-ready, but can't get a clear idea as to which ones I need and which ones will be above my level.

4. Wetstones vs. pasting. Same issues as #3.

Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks in advance!

Welcome to SRP. Chances are if you bought if from a knife store it isn't shave ready although shaving technique ss all important. You shouldn't expect to get bbs with one pass. It may take two or even three but it is a gradual removal rather than a clean sweep for most shavers. Here is an SRP Wiki article describing that.

Go to the link below and you'll find the SRP Wiki beginner's guide along with tutorials on the various hones and what their characteristics are. You'll also find 'razors to avoid'. Make sure your razor isn't one of them. For now your best bet is to probably send your razor out for pro honing and don't worry about the stones until you are more adept in shaving. You can find members who provide honing for a nominal fee in the classifieds in the toolbar above. More folks will be along to help out so don't hesitate to ask questions.

1. Getting a great shave, even from a great, shave ready razor, takes practice and technique. For surfaces that are tough to shave, I find pulling the skin onto a flat surface is helpful. In the hollows next to your adams apple, try pulling the skin to either side - it works for me, but obviously my neck is different from yours, so you'll have to experiment a bit.

2. Unless you have bought your razor from a reputible honer or can tell a shave ready razor from a poorly honed razor, there is no way to know. If you want to be sure, sending it out for honing is your best option.

3. To touch up a razor, you need only a finishing hone. There are many options, including a Naniwa 12k, Shapton 16k, "C12k" - the "Chinese 12k," a number of barber hones, coticule, Thuringian/escher, a finishing Japanese natural, etc etc etc. Personally, I would recommend either the Naniwa 12k or a good barber hone, but you'll have to do some research to see what fits your budget and preferences.

4. Paste vs hone is largely personal preference in the short run. After enough refreshes on paste, your bevel will begin to become convex, and you'll have to go back to the hones.

Hi Drawkward,
I too have had trouble with the hollows of the neck, I've lost alot of weight since I started shaving straight and the hollows have gotten much deeper. I have had some sucess with pointing my chin up and twisting my head to the opposite side while streching with off hand. Also leading with the heel in that spot helps. Some razors are easier to get in there than others. Watch some of the videos, you can pick up suttle things that are hard to pick up with words.

Originally Posted by woodchuck

Some razors are easier to get in there than others.

A lot of guys like razors with smiles for this very reason. I have a wedge with a bit of a smile, as well as hollows on either side of my AA, and can attest that it does work very well.

Originally Posted by drawkward

1. Getting close, comfortable shaves on the philtrum, and in the hollows along my adams apple. On my first pass (WTG), I get tips of the hair, but never am able to get a truly smooth surface.

This is how I get my philtrum: First pass, WTG entire upper lip (Coupe de Maitre). Second pass, XTG upper lip on either side of the philtrum, corner of lip toward the center. A second Coupe de Maitre on the philtrum. Third pass, ATG entire upper lip, philtrum included. (Called the "Fool's Pass" in the Wiki but if you're confident in your ability, it's easily accomplished.)

Hollows alongside Adam's Apple: I REALLY stretch the skin of my neck DOWN HARD. (I use a towel to dry the skin at the base of my throat just above my clavicle.) That pulls the hollows up "flat" so I can easily do N-S & S-N "buffing" passes over my Adam's Apple and the no-longer-hollows on either side. Remember: buffing passes are LIGHT and GENTLE. Works for me.

Trust your right brain. As you continue shaving, think of the challenges your face is providing you. Your right brain will lead your hands to the solution. You'll find yourself experimenting with and perhaps perfecting passes that had someone else suggested them to you a month earlier, you'd think they were nuts! You'll understand what I'm talking about when I post my next segment in the beginner's section.
Namaste,
Morty -_-

Jimmy and Holli are spot on. If you got the razor from a knife shop it's probably not shave ready. Post a pic here if you can and we can probably give you some information about the razor and if it's quality steel or not. Get yourself a shave ready razor first, and that should take care of questions one and two. Questions three and four are lengthy discussions; get the shaving part down first and then hit up the honing forums for suggestions and recommendations regarding whetstones and pastes.

Try raising your arm either above your head and stretch the skin or if your young enough put your arm around the back of the neck and stretch the skin.
To get a good shave first lather up (rub the lather in) and let it stand, get a face cloth and hold it under the sink with the hot water running as hot as you can stand it, wring it out and let it sit on the lathered part of your face, this helps to soften the whiskers, after a few moments remove the wash cloth and re lather and shave.

The adams apple area was the last area for me to master to get a BBS shaves. It was all in the technique, stretching, knowing the exact angles to shave these hairs, and using 2-3 light passes.

As for light honings, I love my 4 sided pasted strop and after 50+ shaves, they do need to get a stone honing to get the bevel reset. I do have one razor going to a 12K and 16K stone to sharpen up the edge to see how this does in the long run vs. the others using the pasted strop. It will likely be another 18 months before I figure out if its a better, worse, or same solution.

I enjoy these type of little experiments.

Pabster

Well I just like to say that after 45+ years of barbering and using many different hones, razors, strops and pastes, etc. I have settled on Double Duck and Puma razors, and a regular leather and canvas Strop along with a good old fashion combo soap stone.

But for hobbyists I say have fun, try different tools, life is short and we gotta be happy.