Thread: XTG

Thats a blanket statement. Of course, I go ATG to get my BBS shave. Some areas get the near ATG pass since ATG isn't feasible due to its location and the size of the straight razor.

Too many passes, too much pressure, and not enough lather are my reasons for an irritated area. I rarely get in grown hairs and when it happens, its very minor and gets worked out easily and unnoticed by others.

Some shavers have problems with ATG, but I am not one of them.

You just have to find out what works for you.

Pabster

In fact if you shave with right technique you don't need AGT TO get bbs shave.
gl

I enjoy having my two personal standards of shaving, BBS and super BBS. I always go the extra effort to get the super BBS shave and that involves the ATG passes and I love it.

Everyone's a little different in their preferences.

Pabster

i shave with an artist club razor and am down to a single pass.. with some light touchups.. atg causes irritation and xtg doesn't seem to get any closer than two wtg passes..

i think overall.. 2 wtg passes are the best way to go.. it's also what i have noticed most professional barbers to do.

My usual routine is to do an WTG, XTG, ATG and then neck touchups atg to get rid of stubble. The other day, on the weekend, I decided to do something Sham always talks about which is not going ATG at all, I used one of the razors he honed and sent to me. I did WTG, XTG, WTG, and then scything motion touch ups and the shave was amazing everywhere on my face. My skin felt a lot younger when I was done. Keep in mind that I always use a scything stroke with is where you slice with the blade while moving the blade in the direction of that pass at the same time.

Barbers never used to go ATG on their clients because everyone's skin is different and they didn't want to risk hurting or irritating a client. Also old books recommend using a scything stroke in the direction of the toe of the razor not in the heel direction. They also would hone their razors with the toe leading the stroke to make the "teeth" face a certain direction for smoothness on the skin.

IMO, if a razor is sharp enough and honed by someone that really knows how to hone nice shaves can be done without an ATG pass. It takes practice and patience and may require some "relearning".

My personal "ah ha" regarding ATG was seeing the wiki that suggested different cutting angles for the three different kinds of pass ...

30 degrees of angle for WTG
15 degrees (I think, or maybe 20 degrees) for XTG
5 degrees of angle for ATG

The 30 degrees really improved my WTG, and boy, the 5 degrees made a 100% difference in both the ease of the against the grain, and the facial comfort afterwards. I think the theory is that you almost want to be flat for against the grain as you are trying to slide the blade under the lay of the hair, whereas with the WTG, if you laid the blade flat you would slide over the lay of the hair.

I've had a couple of shaves at Trumpers, and they told me that there as well. I'm one of those who cant go ATG. I tried it, but it really irritates my skin. If you can do it, great, but dont keep doing it if it hurts, and hoping it comes right. It wont, and its not worth the grief waiting..!

As Obie said, its all about experimentation. If you try something and it works for you, keep doing it. If it feels like someone napalmed your face, try something else..!

I do all three types of passes on mornings when I have time. What drew me to the straight razor in the first place was that I could shave ATG and get a close shave without all the irritation and bumps that the disposable causes by actually inserting contamination and bacteria below the skin line.

I have average beard, somewhat more sensitive skin, but the ATG works okay for me.

The key is of course a well honed and properly stropped razor, but also the angle issue. For my beard and face, Lynn's standard three angles are exactly what works. About 30 degrees of elevation for WTG, about half that for XTG, and for ATG the rib almost rides on my skin. Every time I've had trouble either cutting hair or irritating skin, the angle has been the issue.

One also has to study how the whiskers grow. ATG is not just S to N. My neck has a range of directions of growth, and I have to mind that for each stroke.

Originally Posted by prosneek

They said not to shave against the grain as this is the most common reason for shave irritation. I was always told that is how you get the closest shave. Any one have any comments about this?

Between WTG (0 degrees) and ATG (180 degrees) there are many angles you can use to cut the hair. I agree that against the grain will cause irritation, that's why, instead of a complete opposite angle of 180 degrees, try a mix of XTG and ATG, somewhere around 135 degrees and you'll be fine and your skin will feel better.