Thread: WTG, XTG, ATG OR N-S, E-W, S-N?

I have read many articles and seen quite a few videos detailing the art of SR shaving, but none so many have left me nonplussed as the terms WTG, XTG, or ATG.

At first, I just assumed that WTG was synonymous with a North-South pass all along the facial front. Not so, however, as I found out the earlier on that grain specifically pertains to the direction of beard growth and not to orientation of the face as a whole. In as much as my beard grows in all different (read bizarre) directions in all the various parts of my face, if I were to make a true WTG pass, I would need to divide my beard into no less than eleven parts and change directions many times during a single pass. This would be neither practical nor, as I have come to find, necessary.

As I have acquired more and more experience SR shaving, the techniques that I have learned from the gracious members of this place have been transformed as they have become my own- much in the same way as the piano student becomes proficient to the extent that the style of his teacher is much less noticeable than his own during a recital. My technique regarding direction of travel has changed during passes. I actually have two different systems depending on whether I make what I will call a one and a half pass, or a three pass shave.

Firstly, the one and a half pass. This has become my default shave. It leaves me with at least DFS all over: (note: when scything, I don't relate beard direction because of the varying directional nature of this technique).

First pass:
North-South on cheeks above the jawline. (WTG)
Below jawline- side to side from chin to ear. (ATG)
Rest of neck- N-S (WTG) except
Either side of Adams apple- Scything motion N-S toward Adams apple.
Upper lip- Coupe d' Maitre, N-S (WTG)
Lower lip and chin- N-S (WTG)

Second pass (half pass), below jawline only:
Under jawline- Scything motion from S-N toward ear.
Around Adams apple- Scything motion S-N toward Adams apple.
Rest- S-N (ATG)
Done.

Now for the days when I really want that extra nice shave, I go the three pass and touch up:

First pass:
N-S all along the face including Coupe d' Maitre. (varying grain orientation)

Second pass:
Generally side to side from middle of face outward, scything around AA.

Third pass:
Generally S-N, with the exception of top lip- side to side from outward in. (I never ever ever ever want to try the fool's pass)
AA scything from S-N toward AA.

Touch ups.
Done.

+1 to those of you mentors who have told me that chasing after the BBS only makes it less likely to achieve it. I am thoroughly convinced of that fact. It's all about the technique and enjoying it. The rest just happens. Kinda reminds me of young love. Geez, did I really just say that?

Anyone else have a similar experience?

I don't pay much attention to the WTG, XTG, ATG stuff, I just do a natural pass and move on. Works for me.

N-S-E-W only are relevant to your hair growth. Most of my cheeks grow from N-S, but around my jawline, they start growing more E-W. Under my chin is pretty N-S, but then my neck turns E-W again. So when I shave WTG, I have to know which way my hair grows, and adjust my pass accordingly.

When I started, I just did everything N-S because that is how I used the Mach3. When I mapped my beard and not only adjusted the direction, but also the angle (my neck hairs grew at a much lower angle than the rest of my face) I had noticeably less irritation.

I tend to go one WTG pass on my whole face, then XTG on my whole face, then if I really want a nice feeling smooth (as opposed to just looking clean shaven for work) then I'll do some ATG on my cheeks.

Originally Posted by markevens

When I started, I just did everything N-S because that is how I used the Mach3. When I mapped my beard and not only adjusted the direction, but also the angle (my neck hairs grew at a much lower angle than the rest of my face) I had noticeably less irritation.

same here you found an easter egg!