Thread: Razor burn, Still have to shave What do I do?

Ok here goes, been shaving with a straight for about 4 months now, getting better and better all the time but have a really sensitive neck. the grain on my neck grows from the center out towards my ears. I'm unable to do a traditional WTG pass because I'd have to have the razor straight up and down and it won't fit under my jaw. I've experimented with skin stretching and blade angle and have the irritation down to a minimum, but I still get bumps and irritation quite often. I use good beard prep, quality cream, and use Thayers Witch Hazel and Nivea aftershave balm after my shaving routine so I think I'm ok there. I work as a security guard and have to be clean shaven every day. I don't have to have a BBS shave every day and I dont' try to get one. My question is, When I do get irritation and razor burn, what do I do? I still have to shave the next day, but it's very painful to have to shave again when irritation is present. I won't use a disposable anymore, but have had to whip out the electic razor on a few occasions when my neck was too tender. Any hints or tips would be greatly appreciated.

Is your razor sharp? Has it been rehoned during the four months? You can still shave with a comparatively dull razor, but you will unconsciously use more pressure --> burn. Do you strop before every shave?

None of this is meant as criticism. But answers to these questions might lead us to a solution.

You should be able to get a passable shave with one N-S pass down the neck, and no way should this be irritating if everything else is in place.

This was my first thought as well.

T

Originally Posted by pcb01

Is your razor sharp? Has it been rehoned during the four months? You can still shave with a comparatively dull razor, but you will unconsciously use more pressure --> burn. Do you strop before every shave?

None of this is meant as criticism. But answers to these questions might lead us to a solution.

You should be able to get a passable shave with one N-S pass down the neck, and no way should this be irritating if everything else is in place.

I've been shaving with a straight since October 2010. Under the chin and the neck are still the toughest places for me as well. Have you tried coming straight back from the point of the chin to the neck. In your case that would be across the grain but it might help if you haven't tried it much. Some times when I son't get things just right my face can be pretty tender. I don't shave for several days in order to give my face a chance to heal. I know you can't do that. May I also suggest using a DE safety razor for your neck area. You will get a great shave and probably much less irritation.

If you get burn you need to lay off that area to allow it to heal or it will never be right.

It's really a custom thing. You have to experiment with really stretching the skin every which way until you get it best. Also watch the number of strokes and of course the angle and pressure. Some of us really have serious issues with the neck so if you've tried everything and you have a bit of stubble here and there on the neck I wouldn't worry about it.

Originally Posted by thebigspendur

If you get burn you need to lay off that area to allow it to heal or it will never be right.

+1. I know you said that you have to be clean shaven daily, but you really do have to lay off irritating your razor burned skin or else it will just become worse.

From your description, my neck whiskers grow pretty much the same. A true ATG pass, even if I wanted to do one (doubtful), is near impossible. However with experience, good prep, skin stretching, a scything stroke and a sharp razor you should be able to get your neck almost BBS with an XTG pass or two. Try N to S, followed by S to N (or vice versa) and remember to watch your angle and lay off the pressure.

I have the same issue in regard to direction of growth combined with very course facial hair, a sharp jawline, and a lean, muscular neck (e.g. slight hollows to each side of the adam's apple that are difficult to get into).

First and foremost, to help reduce the irritation, +1 to what's already been said: rest (e.g. skip) a day between shaves if possible to allow a little healing, and try using even less pressure (if your razor is properly honed and stropped you should only need what little pressure it takes to keep the razor in the slightest contact with your skin).

As for stroke technique, while they may not get you to total BBS on the neck, here are two different strokes that I've found useful for at least getting a close, comfortable shave on my neck despite the center-to-ear growth pattern and contour challenges:

1. Place the point (toe) of the razor just below the jaw hinge, keep the toe stationary, and rotate the rest of the blade in a quarter arc - as if the toe were the center of a clock and the rest of the blade were the minute hand sweeping counter-clockwise from 9:00 to 6:00 around that center point
   
2. Use N to S strokes while keeping the blade edge at a 45 deg. angle in relation to the floor (this has the effect of adding a 'slicing' action in relation to the edge meeting the hair even though the direction of your stroke is still straight down) - basically a pseudo-scything-stoke almost along the lines of what Ryan82 mentioned. As any chef can tell you, a blade works best and most efficiently when its force is imparted in two directions. The least efficient way to use a razor is to move the whole blade in one direction like a scraper or a squeegee. The most effective way to use it is to combine a 'chopping' motion with a very slight 'slicing' motion - e.g. a scything motion (the next time you watch Iron Chef or Good Eats or any other professional cooking show take notice to how chefs use combined downward / front-to-back motion when cutting foods).

Most importantly of all though keep trying and don't be afraid to experiment with a little variation - however slight it may be - in your strokes. At the 4-6 month stage I thought I'd become proficient with a straight on my neck... but then right around 8 months it was like the everything suddenly became even clearer.

Hope this is of some help.

Guys I can't thanks all of you enough for all of the input. Yes, the razor has been honed by a reputable honemeister, and i strop 50 laps on leather before every shave. It sounds like I'm just going to have to keep experimenting with angles and pressure. Up until about a month ago, I was using alot of pressure and didn't even realize it, and have been working towards much lighter pressure. It seems counter-intuitive, but reducing the pressure has greatly improved the comfort. I'll just keep trying to get that final little bit. Thanks again everyone for all the input.

use the electric on your neck when you have work the next day and practice with the straight when you don't until you work out the razorburn issues

less pressure from the razor against your skin and less aggressive shaving angle should help

May I also suggest using a DE safety razor for your neck area. You will get a great shave and probably much less irritation.

My suggestion, also.

A DE razor is much easier to manouver than a straight razor. You'll be able to go WTG everywhere.

And remember:

. . . A sharp DE blade is as sharp as a straight razor. Use _no pressure_.

Charles