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Thread: weight / size

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    Default weight / size

    I've been shaving with a Lynn-sharpened Wade and Butcher, looks like about 4/8 or 9/16. Recently I got an old Joseph Elliot's, a heavier blade (still hollow though) which I think is 6/8. I honed it myself. It is nowhere near Lynn-sharpness, needless to say, but interestingly it does a lot better on my chin, where the stubble is maddeningly thick. The W&B just gets hung up in there. This is making me wonder about the larger blades. Unlike many here, I don't particularly like the look or mystique of them, but if they can conquer this chin then I'm getting one.

    Is it true, though, that it's weight not size that matters? Should I be looking into half-hollows and wedges? I've noticed that the old 1920's barber's manual talks about the appropriate razor for a given beard in terms of thinness - by which I assume they mean hollowness, not width in eighths.

    If there's something out there that can mow down chin hair that looks like copper wire, I'm buying it.

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    Loudmouth FiReSTaRT's Avatar
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    Usually thin grinds have lots of flex. However some full hollows can still be fairly substantial, so nothing's written in stone. I actually have this 6/8 full hollow G. Butler INOX that doesnt even feel the chin stubble, just mows through it.

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    Sharpness, stiffness, and weight all matter if you have a stiff beard. Size doesn't directly matter as far as I can tell, except that larger razors tend to weigh more and be somewhat stiffer.

    The momentum really helps when you hit the trees, it's tough to just muscle the blade through there. And blade flex is a good way to scrape yourself accidentally.

    Big blades mostly are nice because they hold more lather before you have to wipe or rinse; my big 8/8s can shave half my face before I wipe.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mparker762
    Sharpness, stiffness, and weight all matter if you have a stiff beard. Size doesn't directly matter as far as I can tell, except that larger razors tend to weigh more and be somewhat stiffer.
    So how can you can know how stiff and heavy a razor will be if you're buying it on ebay, as so many here do? I know some brands have reputations as great shavers; are there brands known for weight and stiffness?

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    It's not so much a matter of brand as it is grind. Wedges, quarter hollows, half hollows, and 3/4 hollows are all very stiff and heavy for their size. Some full hollows are still quite stiff, but here it's just a matter of experience as to how stiff they are. Any blade described as "extra hollow ground" is probably not particularly stiff, and the same applies for any blade described as "singing" (the singing in question is sound from the blade flexing and ringing).

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    Thanks mparker, that helps. It seems like extra hollow, singing etc. is preferred. You don't see a lot of half- and 3/4-hollowed razors out there, do you. Do they still make many less-than-fully hollowed?

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    TI still makes half-hollow razors, they're listed at classicshaving (one of them is here).

    Also, John Crowley has several NOS quarter hollow blades, here's a link to one of them.

    Also, framebacks combine stiffness and light weight if you want to try that combination. Crowley has several NOS 6/8 framebacks in stock if you poke around.

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    I know that TI makes some half hollows like this one:
    http://www.classicshaving.com/catalo...013/803567.htm

    I thought there were some DOVO wedges around as well but I'm not 100% sure.

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    Is there any disadvantage to a quarter hollow?

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    It depends on the application. A 1/4 hollow is practically a wedge.. Best for heavy growth.

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