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Thread: Can I finish and maintain with a C12K stone?

  1. #11
    Senior Member Mephisto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post

    Edit: Here is the "Definative" chart, that thread was 2009,, here is the problem with these Charts, it is wrong since that was made, and everyone thought that the Norton 8k was the same as any JIS 4k, which anyone honing razors knows isn't true.. Somebody took the time to find out that Norton's are JIS rated..

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...n-sheet-2.html


    Back to the simple way of looking at it, "Grit" ratings are there to compare hones of the same series from the same maker...
    Wow, a lot of technical stuff there. Well, techy for me. It would be nice to find some quantifiable way of determining what is what between stones. I guess it would still not matter since the end user will always have a subjective experience of a stone. Quantifying would also lose the mystery of each stone. I mean isn't that part of the mystique with naturals. It goes beyond a chart or gradiation, leaving the visceral component left. The exploration of steel and stone. The adaptation of skill and knowledge to an unidetifiable component that is found in each natural.

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    Honestly, if you're only going to have one stone, save your money and buy the Norton 4/8K. The C12K's are difficult to master, and for a newbie, good luck. I quit using mine because I always dulled the edge with it. But, the 4/8K is easy to learn for beginners and it will give you a great edge. It also gives you the lower grit in case you need to touch up a ding which will happen eventually. The Norton is also 3" wide which is what makes it so easy to master.

  3. #13
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mephisto View Post
    Wow, a lot of technical stuff there. Well, techy for me. It would be nice to find some quantifiable way of determining what is what between stones. I guess it would still not matter since the end user will always have a subjective experience of a stone. Quantifying would also lose the mystery of each stone. I mean isn't that part of the mystique with naturals. It goes beyond a chart or gradiation, leaving the visceral component left. The exploration of steel and stone. The adaptation of skill and knowledge to an unidetifiable component that is found in each natural.

    Way simpler " Synthetics are an Exact Science, and Naturals are a Romance"

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Hi Ryan,

    Of course the c12k works. Its slow. Painfully slow. Can it work is usually less the issue than how does it work compared to alternatives. As Glen will attest, you might have to buy several before you get one whose edge you like. Is it really that cost effective then? Toss in how different blades respond to the natural stone, and I can't see it as a best bet - compared to a high grit synthetic. I've not found a more cost effective edge than the Naniwa 12k unless you go to pasted strops. I have stones from which I like the finish better, but not for the money. I think we have many guys who've begun honing that concluded the same. I used the c12k for my first 7 months of honing. For the money - it does give sharp. If you get lucky, I hear you can also get smooth. I've yet to be that lucky.

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