Results 11 to 14 of 14
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06-14-2012, 07:03 PM #11
Wow, a lot of technical stuff there. Well, techy for me. It would be nice to find some quantifiable way of determining what is what between stones. I guess it would still not matter since the end user will always have a subjective experience of a stone. Quantifying would also lose the mystery of each stone. I mean isn't that part of the mystique with naturals. It goes beyond a chart or gradiation, leaving the visceral component left. The exploration of steel and stone. The adaptation of skill and knowledge to an unidetifiable component that is found in each natural.
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06-14-2012, 11:53 PM #12
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Thanked: 57Honestly, if you're only going to have one stone, save your money and buy the Norton 4/8K. The C12K's are difficult to master, and for a newbie, good luck. I quit using mine because I always dulled the edge with it. But, the 4/8K is easy to learn for beginners and it will give you a great edge. It also gives you the lower grit in case you need to touch up a ding which will happen eventually. The Norton is also 3" wide which is what makes it so easy to master.
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06-15-2012, 05:13 AM #13
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Thanked: 13245
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06-15-2012, 05:35 AM #14
Hi Ryan,
Of course the c12k works. Its slow. Painfully slow. Can it work is usually less the issue than how does it work compared to alternatives. As Glen will attest, you might have to buy several before you get one whose edge you like. Is it really that cost effective then? Toss in how different blades respond to the natural stone, and I can't see it as a best bet - compared to a high grit synthetic. I've not found a more cost effective edge than the Naniwa 12k unless you go to pasted strops. I have stones from which I like the finish better, but not for the money. I think we have many guys who've begun honing that concluded the same. I used the c12k for my first 7 months of honing. For the money - it does give sharp. If you get lucky, I hear you can also get smooth. I've yet to be that lucky.