Thread: Mustache and Chin Area: Damn Hard to Master...

With all your tips I am making significant progress. I am doing all my mustache and chin area with minimal razor burn - and this morning I found out why I still have some residual razor burn left: my XTG pass is actually almost an ATG pass since my beard is growing east to west. This means I will go in the same way of the whiskers and my XTG pass will be less irritating. In any case, I'm finding that a SR is doing such a close job than a WTG and XTG is giving me a very close shave and may not require yet an ATG.

Can't say however I am not leaving some light stubble here and there but I am confident at this point it is just a question of practice makes perfect.

I think I'm well on my way to master this art. My big weakness us that I'm still trying to build too much speed and this is not a good idea. I'm always reminding me to slow it down and concentrate on the learning rather than beating the clock...

I like your analysis. I'm over a month along now, and I'm just now getting to the point that I can evaluate the edge (six-razor rotation actually makes for more to learn) on the fly so that by the time I get to the moustache and chin, I've got the feel for how fast is an optimal stroke for that edge. A GOOD edge, especially at the toe of the blade is critical for me to get the moustache area. I also use the diagonal stroke from the center, *almost* toward the corner of the lips, after one vertical stroke in the middle. I also find that even with a necessarily steeper angle there after lifting the nose, it helps to go VERY light. When that doesn't work, it's probably because my honing isn't quite there yet, and it's just not sharp enough. I've pulled off a good shave there, four or five times really well now, so I'm better able to immediately figure out if it's me or the blade. My sense is that after you really get it right once, you'll be able to duplicate that success.

For the chin, I just go over it the same way I used to with a cartridge razor. About the same speed, too, except that I do an XTG/diagonal stroke on each side, an ATG underneath as part of my 2nd pass (which is all ATG) and sometimes two WTG passes over the front, using the center of the blade.

As for aligning the blade with the scales, I've tried using the left hand on the left side, but it's really awkward for me and looking in the mirror really disoriented me when I tried that. After about five tries and numerous nasty cuts (still healing), I gave up. I find that if I just straighten the razor out and reach across with the right hand, it's just fine, except for the entire front of the chin, which I do all "right-sided".

As for soap drying up, have you tried some of the brush shaving creams from TOBS, Truefitt & Hill or Trumper? I find that they don't dry like the soaps and the lather is excellent. I just bought a bunch of samples from all of them and have been using a different scent every day (see SOTD), but the cream lathers have all been consistent, really load up the brush well and don't dry my skin as much.

Nothing like a little success to make you feel good, congrats on the progress. When shaving I use short strokes and when I move over I overlap the last run of strokes a bit. Virtually no part of a face is a flat plane so overlapping helps me to not leave the odd stray stubble hanging about.

Bob

best thing to do, go SLOW and STEADY...more experience, less CUTS...GOOD lUCK!

You are getting some excellent points from the group...what worked for me:

1. A drop dead perfect edge....I was about 25-30 shaves in and I bought a razor from a member. With that fantastic edge and having had some practice I had a break-out shave...it just came together.

2. Keep in mind it takes closer to 100 shaves to get all of it working. Sounds like you are doing very well, take your time...

3. 75 years ago this would have been a skill that a family member would have coached you on. We are trying to rebuild that skill set using a web page and you-tube. It's a razor...a strait razor...and you are teaching yourself how to use it with remote coaching....

4. Right after great blade is great skin tension. Because great skin tension takes in to account the direction of the growth - you have to work out the position that works for you, for your beard. Don't get discouraged if what works on the demo of the the day does not work for you.

5. I've had a mustache for 40 years this past November (it's always Movember for me) so I can't offer any upper lip tips...

6. Try wiping the lather off on a towel or tissue. The sink rinse can slow the process and you loose some of the rhythm. Not to mention you can dink the edge on the faucet. In the old days they would strop off the lather on a towel placed on the customers shoulder or close by. This also keeps excess water off of your hands and the razor.

I remember watching some of the demos and thinking "there is no way that I am ever going to be able to pull that stroke/pass/maneuver off" I would actually cringe watching some of them...and then one day you do it...and it makes your day.

Good shaving!

I continue to make progress - I shave everyday so I have plenty opportunities of learning

I still need to use the DE on the 3rd pass, especially for the jaw line of the chin, but I do full face shaving wih the str8 on my first 2 passes. I have decided to forget about speed as I focus exlusively on slow, steady, precise eye-hand coordination to get optimal pressure and blade angle. I'm finding that I'll need to wake up 15 min. earlier to make up the time in my morning schedule because I'm too slow right now But whatever it takes. I had to go through the same learning curve when I first learned to shave with a DE: early on, I tried to go too fast too soon and I went backwards big time, with less comfortable shaves. When you try to build up speed prior to being ready, you just unlearn and get into sloppy, bad habits.

Your hints and tips are really helping me. I have even wrote down a couple of them on a Post-it that I stick on the bathroom's mirror so I remember them when I'm shaving. My wife thinks I'm nuts but I know you guys recognize my symptoms as a true, dedicated beginner str8 shaver

Originally Posted by Furcifer

As for soap drying up, have you tried some of the brush shaving creams from TOBS, Truefitt & Hill or Trumper? I find that they don't dry like the soaps and the lather is excellent. I just bought a bunch of samples from all of them and have been using a different scent every day (see SOTD), but the cream lathers have all been consistent, really load up the brush well and don't dry my skin as much.

I am using at the moment Truefitt & Hill's 1805, Trafalgar, Ultimate Comfort. Also I have some Geo Trumpers Sandalwood left. They are superior creams but they will dry out at some point. Adding glycerine as suggested helped me and I don't hesitate now to relather regularly during the shave.

Originally Posted by Tzar

I continue to make progress - I shave everyday so I have plenty opportunities of learning

I am using at the moment Truefitt & Hill's 1805, Trafalgar, Ultimate Comfort. Also I have some Geo Trumpers Sandalwood left. They are superior creams but they will dry out at some point. Adding glycerine as suggested helped me and I don't hesitate now to relather regularly during the shave.

Hi Tzar - I'm only 30 days' in, but found the same thing as you with the soap drying out before I got to the harder moustache and chin areas, which I had left to last (so had to relather etc). It occurred to me that I was tackling the hardest two areas, with the worst prep (dry, old lather, cooling face etc). The next few shaves, I did the moustache first and then the whole chin, before tackling the rest. I found the shaving of both these areas MUCH easier and smoother, which has helped me progress these two areas a lot quicker.

Hope this helps,
Kevin

Originally Posted by KCC088

Hi Tzar - I'm only 30 days' in, but found the same thing as you with the soap drying out before I got to the harder moustache and chin areas, which I had left to last (so had to relather etc). It occurred to me that I was tackling the hardest two areas, with the worst prep (dry, old lather, cooling face etc). The next few shaves, I did the moustache first and then the whole chin, before tackling the rest. I found the shaving of both these areas MUCH easier and smoother, which has helped me progress these two areas a lot quicker.

Hope this helps,
Kevin

Tried your advice this morning to start with mustache and chin area, and very glad I did. No razor burn or irritation at all! I had to relather for cheeks and neck, but those areas aren't a problem so it went as usual after I relathered. Thanks for the tip!

I'm not going to try a full ATG 3rd pass for now though. I will perfect my strokes for WTG and XTG to leave as less stubble as possible everywhere and when the first 2 passes will feel very comfortable with the str8, going almost by instinct and with enough speed, I'll try ATG.