Thread: Can a SR be not sharp enough?

I've been straight shaving for almost 2 months now and have been noticing some things. I dont always shave with a SR because of time constraints, so when time prohibits I use a DE. My typical SR shave can take the better part of a half hour for 3 passes. However, even with a 3 pass SR shave I dont get as smooth as I do with a 2 pass DE shave. Because of this Im becoming a bit concerned that maybe my face isnt cut out for straight razor shaving.

Im also noticing that I cant really do an ATG pass without alot of tugging and pulling and discomfort. Part of this, I know is my lather drying out, which Im still trying to rectify by different methods of building lather. One thing Im wondering is, can a SR be not sharp enough? Now, Im not talking about being dull, Im talking about a razor that is incredibly sharp but just not sharp enough for a persons particular liking. Im wondering if I need a razor that is sharper than what I've been using, which by the way, is definitely sharp and shave ready. I ask this because a fresh blade in my DE produces the smoothest shave I've ever had, as well as a fresh blade in my Shavette produces a nice smooth shave as well.

So Im a bit lost here. Im figuring its probably that Im going to need to learn to hone very soon and learn to hone my razors to a level of sharpness that rivals a new DE blade. Or am I just being retarded here and over thinking everything.

Yes, There are different levels of "Sharpness" (dependent on the razor itself *) also there are different types of "Finishes" as well as different type of razors..

As you keep walking down the straight razor path you will begin to narrow down what is going to work on your face the best..

BTW it takes some people quite a bit of time and practice to do a true ATG pass with a SR if at all



* A razor's actual micron level of sharpness is dertimined by Steel, Grind, Honing, and Stropping it isn't quite so easy to nail down...

I realize now that this is a really hard concept for me to elaborate on.

I have this thought that a razor should be so sharp that it glides across my face and removes hair with little to no felt pressure of the blade on my face, in any direction. With my DE, I can get that. The comb of the razor and the blade just seem to skim the shaving cream off my face, as well as the hair, but I really dont feel it doing any work. However, with my SR, no matter the angle I can feel that its there on my face. I have to apply a slight pressure and use more of an overlapping scraping type motion to seem to really get the hair off, but I know this thing is sharp as hell cause I can watch it pop hairs on my hair at will. However, the hair on my face is much more coarse so that could play a factor I suppose.

I know the ATG pass is a difficult thing to master, but I can pull it off to a certain degree with my Shavette so I would think that I would be able to pull it off with a regular straight as well. However I have seen some say that the ultimate test of a razors sharpness comes from how well it performs ATG. Could it be that I really just require blades that sharp to be able to get a good shave?

I just really dont want to go back to just shaving with a DE all the time. I really enjoy SR shaving and want to keep at it, but it seems a bit daunting right now trying to figure this current predicament out.

Brand and type of razor ????


Keep in mind that the actual "Sharpness" difference between a DE and a SR is very very very small IF the SR is honed to it's max and stropped correctly..

Note the big "if" there are a multitude of variables that have to happen to get a SR at it's full potential

Many people love to use the saying "It ain't rocket science" and that is more correct then they imagine, this is more of an art then science to get those effortless comfortable shaves many of the old timers brag about..

One of the things you’re used to and probably take for granted is the leverage from the handle of your DE and shortness of the blade. A SR does not have that same leverage and as such you feel more resistance than you might feel from a DE. Also, there are very specific techniques that you will need to master in order to get as good or better a shave than your DE. It sounds like a challenge but that’s the fun part. I can’t tell you exactly what YOU need to do since everyone needs to do different things. But I can assure you that I thought the same as you did when I started. In the back of my mind I kept thinking that this was an amusing little hobby but won’t ever rival the quality of shaves that I get from my DE. I’ve since blown that theory out of the water. My shaves now are BETTER than what I was able to attain with a DE. If you stick with it, you can do it.

Right now, I've been using a 7/8 G. Wostenholm Celebrated IXL 1/4 hollow. I have two others that I have not been able to use yet because they were no where near sharp enough when I got them, bordering on being flat dull. So those are with a local guy being fixed up for me. Im not entirely sure what they have been honed on as the Wostenholm Im using was honed by the gentleman who is fixing up my other two. So I cant comment on what they have been honed on. Stropping has been done on a latigo strop.

I know this may come off as arrogant, but I dont entirely believe that its bad technique because if I can get a good shave with a shavette, I should be able to get a good to, at the very least, decent shave from a SR.

Part of the problem is that you are comparing Apples and Oranges between the Wosty 1/4 hollow and a Shavette..

The Wosty is designed for smooth comfortable inertia driven passes, the steel is relatively soft compared to many of the newer Extreme Hollows..

If you want a SR that is close in performance to a Shavette you have to chase that style of edge, basically a Extreme Hollow grind probably a Solingen or NY brand that has hard steel and can hold onto a Wicked Sharp edge without getting harsh...

You might have to look into using pastes depending on what hones are in the mix to get way down on the actual micron size of the edge. The extreme hollow will allow the blade to flex with the contours of your face allowing for an even closer shave..


Keep in mind many people get very close shaves with the older Sheffield steel, as it fits their face, but if you are getting very good shaves off a Shavette and like them, then that is what you should target your SR purchases after.. Later once you master the techniques then you can explore the other types and grinds..

Been at it for a while now, probably approaching my hundredth shave. Some shaves i get BBS, others less than perfect, and i still nick myself occasionally. Shaved with a DE recently, and i feel now i get less irritation and it's more comfortable with a straight. It certainly is an art, and alot of variables, one being the level of sharpness, but well worth the time and effort.

From personal experience it took me a lot longer than 2 months to get a shave nearing the equal of what I can get from a DE. Everyone learns at a different rate though. There are so many different components that go into getting a very good straight razor shave that small deficiencies in technique, stropping, blade sharpness and lather can combine to give a less than optimal shave. It all does eventually come together.

I have some razors that I do better with ATG than with others and I do believe the ones that do well have a tiny bit better sharpness. All my razors perform WTG and XTG passes well but the AGT pass separates the men from the boys among the blades for sharpness.

I would think experience with a shavette should be a help in transitioning to straights but I have never used one. The thing that you have to do with straights that you don't have to do with shavettes is strop the blade. Even if you don't nick the strop you could still be dulling the blade stropping. When you do get your honed up razors back try a shave without stropping. The next shave strop the razor and if it shaves less well you know you are loosing some sharpness in stropping.

It is frustrating when you hit a certain level and can't seem to improve on it but you have to do a process of elimination of variables to see where the trouble spots are. You might have more than one area the needs tweaking.

Bob

If your face and beard work better with DE blades in a Shavette, step up to the Feather SS with Feather blades. If you want the feeling of the blade just sliding across your face effortlessly dooming whiskers, the Feather SS will do that for you.