Thread: Certain grind better for crazy facial hair growth patterns?

Hey guys. I have been using a 9/16 full hollow, and a 6/8's 3/4 hollow, but I have some crazy patterns on my neck... E-->W, that slowly moves WSW, then SW, but where meets adams apple area the hair grows NNW into that other pattern making WTG almost impossible. Also I have problems getting close shave on the chin lower lip area with the full hollow. I have worked on angles, but the blade refuses to cut some of the whiskers. I have this problem to with the 3/4 hollow, but not as bad. I have done a semi dry run (using a little soap, and mostly water) in order to make sure I am contacting the whiskers.. Both blades catch them, and then simply don't cut them no matter the angle. Both blades are shave ready, recently got them back from being honed by a well known honemeister off this site. I definitely get an all around better shave from the heavier 6/8 3/4 hollow blade. Would moving up to something else like a 1/4 hollow work better? With the 9/16 I have to pull the blade to get it to cut otherwise the whiskers just stop the blade. While the 3/4 hollow 6/8s takes less pulling, but does not shave on its own. Thanks for your input.

In a situation such as you describe a round point would probably be the ticket no matter the grind. I prefer a bit heavier grind than a full hollow but I shave with both with no problems ..... as long as they are shave ready. I also have neck whiskers in various directions. The solution for me was not a particular grind. Figuring out different directions of skin stretching and attack, blade angle for specific areas was how I learned to get a smooth/close shave in those problem areas.

Actually the 6/8s I have is a square point, and it is must easier for me to get the difficult areas like hollows next to adams apple. The full hollow I have is a more rounded tip. The biggest problem I have is the blade not wanted to cut some of the whiskers no matter the angle. I have gotten up close and personal with the mirror to watch the blade contact the whiskers, and it just seems to run over them without cutting no matter the stretch of the skin, or pushing the area out with my tongue. Also when I get to this area of shaving E-W, or W-E depending on side of face, the blade just stops like it hit a brick wall. Then I really have to pull the blade through the whiskers, but this doesn't cause any irritation, just the only way to shave the goatee area.

To me, the grind is about preference not performance. Shaving goofy growth directions and neck undulations is about stretching and discovering the best stroke for you anatomy.

I have not yet tried a healthy smile, but I suspect that it would make the hollows of my neck easier.

Just keep trying and try and resist taking a 4th and 5th pass. It will only set you back. It took me months to figure out the best way to get my neck (I think we have similar growth)...and I still don't always go for BBS shaves. Most of the time I go for 'good enough that you can only FEEL it when faceturbating but you cannot SEE it'

Keep trying, you will get it.

Originally Posted by StHubert

...Both blades catch them, and then simply don't cut them no matter the angle. Both blades are shave ready, recently got them back from being honed by a well known honemeister off this site.

You state a lot right here. I'm afraid that something has happened to the edge on your razors. A razor is shaveready from a "honemeister" when you receive it. If you touch the edge to anything, then all bets are off. I am not meaning to insult, but you simply don't know what is going on. Aside from what Jimmy is recommending on learning angles & stretching, I have a feeling there is something going on with the edge...but have a question. Are you shaving after you get out of the shower or do a good facial prep? A good facial prep helps to soften the beard. Ask yourself, could you have damaged the edge by stropping or "scraping" (holding the blade at more than one blade width off the skin) the edge across your face? Your razor may need a touch-up.

Add a location to your member information & find a mentor to help you through the initial blade to face phase. A mentor doesn't have to have a badge, just someone who has been shaving with a straight for a while and is comfortable shaving with a straight. We are a large community (straight razor users) and growing...take advantage of it!

Lastly, if you are in my area or I could assist you...please PM me and I'll help you get through this little bump in the road.

The whiskers on my neck grow in all sorts of weird directions, and I've found that I tend to do better with heavier razors since they don't have to be pushed as much. My current favorites are a big full hollow ground 13/16", a 11/16" half-hollow, and a 9/16" near wedge.

*Edit*
If you live near Shooter74743, I'd definitely take him up on his offer. He helped me a ton when I first started shaving with an SR.

A truly sharp edge remediates a lot of technique and preparation problems.

I do not mess with the edge when get razors back from honing, and am extremely careful about keep the blade in top shape. The blade shaves most of my face without problem, but in that area of my face (chin/lower lip/fu manchu area) is where the blade needs to be pulled more so. While my neck has random patterns, the problem with that has been trying to go WTG (which has been impossible in all areas), so I have settled for a XTG, which works out decently. I was really just wondering if bumping up the grind, or width of the razor, if I would be able to get away from that feeling of really having to pull the razor through the whiskers to cut. After I get through those whiskers with the extra pull, I get a good shave with no irritation. Maybe that area is just exceptionally more coarse than the rest of my beard? I am still happier with straight razor shaving than any other method! I can finally shave everyday without irritation and break outs!

Shooter, thanks for the offer, however I am not close to your area. I don't list my area because over the next 5 months I will be in 3 different states, and 4 different cities, and starting graduate studies in the fall.

This subject comes up all the time.

A 4/8s proper sharp razor will cut the same as a the largest wedge. Now maybe you use the two different because of the size or maybe your current hollow isn't sharp enough. There could be many reasons why you are not getting the result you want however the size and grind of the razor isn't one of them.

Have you tried stropping again before hitting the tough areas? That sometimes helps when you're new at this.