Thread: Double Duck Goldedge

I got this razor a little while ago and put it away while working on some other restores. Most of the gold wash is gone, just a little bit around the hinge pin area. Looks like both sides of the edge and spine are straight when I laid it flat on the DMT plate huge bonus. Looks like a small warp in the front side scale, another bonus the blade closes dead center. Hinge pin is quite loose, so will try to tighten it up a bit.

Not sure whether I can clean it all up enough without pulling everything apart, not really wanting to lose the original pins.
Would like to hear any opinions or thoughts on this from the members. Pics below.

LOVE the Goldedges!

It is YOUR razor so it is really up to YOU.

Nice one. Just be extra careful when you tighten or unpin her. Every Duck I've had apart has had a bent pivot pin. Those scales are in good condition with very little yellowing but they will be brittle. Good luck.



rs,
Tack

Clean up the pivot area and try to tighten the pin carefully. If it works then you don't have to take it apart it's just a pain to get it clean. If not you really only need to take 1 pin out anyway right? You can pin it back with the same washers if you are very careful taking it apart.

Originally Posted by Tack

Every Duck I've had apart has had a bent pivot pin.

Oh yeah... Those pins are a PITA!

Thanks for all the input guys. Just looking at those pins and washers they are different to what I normally see on razors, the pin appears to sit inside the washer which would add a higher degree of difficulty to unpinning the razor. As I have only done a handful of razor restores so far, I still have lots to learn about. Any tips and suggestions are appreciated.
I am going to try cleaning up without removing the pivot pin. Would toothpaste be safe to use for a light clean between the scales? I want to remove the gunk in there. I am hoping that this will be the way to go without taking it all apart.
If I have to remove the pivot pin for a clean up, it looks like I would have to do a full repin of the razor to keep it all looking the same.
Can the pins be popped without damaging the washers too much? The other problem I see in this event could be the "Goldedge" and "Ducks" insignia being damaged at the wedge end when repinning the razor.
Thanks in advance for any tips, methods etc from our members.

Originally Posted by RickyBeeroun222

Thanks for all the input guys. Just looking at those pins and washers they are different to what I normally see on razors, the pin appears to sit inside the washer which would add a higher degree of difficulty to unpinning the razor. As I have only done a handful of razor restores so far, I still have lots to learn about. Any tips and suggestions are appreciated.
I am going to try cleaning up without removing the pivot pin. Would toothpaste be safe to use for a light clean between the scales? I want to remove the gunk in there. I am hoping that this will be the way to go without taking it all apart.
If I have to remove the pivot pin for a clean up, it looks like I would have to do a full repin of the razor to keep it all looking the same.
Can the pins be popped without damaging the washers too much? The other problem I see in this event could be the "Goldedge" and "Ducks" insignia being damaged at the wedge end when repinning the razor.
Thanks in advance for any tips, methods etc from our members.

Unpinning the razor is SORT OF difficult because the scales are real EASY to snap. If you take your time and use a pin drill first and work your way up from that it is not "too" bad. Most likely you will have to do both sides though. As has been said the pins usually are bent.

I would guess toothpaste would be okay to use but Blue Magic Metal Polish Cream seems to be the "go to" product. It does a GREAT job also!

If you get the washers off without damaging them to bad re-pinning would not look that different IMO.

As far as the inlays getting damaged when re-pinning, unless you are WHACKING the crud out of the pins this doesn't come into play.

You can go here:http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...es-reaper.html
You can get a TON of tips and tricks for your restore.

10pups has restored more Ducks than anyone I know.

The worse thing that could happen is you mess up the scales and you need to get new scales.

That is not always a bad thing

I can try to help if you have any questions, but I am pretty new to the restore game myself.
Shoot me a PM if you want to ask anything and I will see if I can help!

Ed

I decided to unpin this razor yesterday. I carefully hand filed the pins each side down to a point where the washers popped off, then started the slow task of removing the pins. Those suckers were in there tight, and as 10pups said they were all bent. Thanks for the tips mate.
I have gone into some detail explaining my process in the hope some others may gain something from it. I am certainly no expert on anything, just learning as I go. Hope nobody got too bored reading the details
The hinge pin was first and went fairly easy, I used a center punch to mark the top of the pin, then a small nail and my peening hammer to ease the pin out, using the hammer much the same as I do when peening. To protect the scales I used a folded rag under them and sat them on my vice jaws which were open about 1/4". Some of the rag was also pushed inside the jaws to catch the pin if it fell out of the scales. The scales were positioned so the pin being removed would not be restricted as it came out. After about 5 minutes working on it, this pin was removed from the scales.
The middle pin was next to be done and this one went without any problems.
The wedge pine was now all that needed to be done. Once again I used the same method being extra careful around the inlays to prevent damage to them. This one was by far the most difficult to remove. After nearly 20 minutes of tapping the pin was only a quarter of the way out, it had not even cleared the first scale yet. I decided to work some graphite powder into the pin hole and leave it there for about an hour.
When I came back to try again the pin still would not move. So I thought why not use my electric drill with 1/16" bit and carefully drill out the pin top some more and work from there. After some careful drilling in very short bursts, I saw metal filings coming out of the pin hole. A few more bursts like this and I put the drill away and started tapping the pin out again. Another 10 minutes of careful work and the pin finally came out to where it could be grabbed with pliers and slowly worked out of the back scale.
At last done with no damage to the scales. Now to straighten them out as there is a small amount of warping in them.
This restore work will now move to the Workshop section where I will try to keep it short and sweet with pics too