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Thread: Poor Man's Filarmonica Especial 14

  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Shave this morning was fantastic. Really like any other nicely ground razor (by that I mean one that's accurate, straight and has a thin grind), but the size gets you persuasion that you don't get in a small razor. Brought a couple of weeps. Shaves a lot like the 7/8 razor I bought from some guy on ebay ("Frabil" branded), in that both are razors that have proportions of a smaller razor, except that every measurement is 25% bigger or so. Then can bring up weeps and razor burn if you don't remember that you have much more weight than an extra hollow 6/8.

    There's a bit of sensation using a razor as large (it's long as well as tall) that it's sort of a sideshow act. Reminds me of the breakfast scene in pee wee's big adventure where pee wee uses an enormous tooth brush and then huge utensils. I could hear the crazy breakfast scene music in the back of my head this morning:


  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth engine46's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveW View Post
    Nicely done! When I first started shaving, I came here from woodworking tools, where one expects to see an old tool looking like it's seen a little bit of rust or patina. It's strange how the razor market loves only NOS looking razors when it comes to driving the price high, because there sure isn't much different in the shave. Different market, different rules, but I'm happy in this case to refurbish one that doesn't garner much interest.

    Crazy how much they bring even rusty, though!!
    I would have bought it!

  3. #13
    Senior Member ultrasoundguy2003's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveW View Post
    Nicely done! When I first started shaving, I came here from woodworking tools, where one expects to see an old tool looking like it's seen a little bit of rust or patina. It's strange how the razor market loves only NOS looking razors when it comes to driving the price high, because there sure isn't much different in the shave. Different market, different rules, but I'm happy in this case to refurbish one that doesn't garner much interest.

    Crazy how much they bring even rusty, though!!
    SHHHHHH whats wrong with you????
    Oh no if its rusty its TRASH.
    Dont even bid on that piece of junk.
    It belongs in a scrap heap.
    If it wasnt for these finds I would never have been able to shave with this quality and level of razor that and 10Pups mentoring me I have been able to enjoy blades way above my paygrade.
    Seriously that junk pile holds priceless unloved PROJECTS.
    Like reclaimed lumber out of the burned out houses in Detroit. Wood of a quality that is irreplaceable. Just have to go in with a crowbar and a sidearm but its free.
    Your only as good as your last hone job.

  4. #14
    Senior Member ultrasoundguy2003's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by engine46 View Post
    I would have bought it!
    What you did with the Dremmel IS amazing, that is high quality work Engine.
    Your only as good as your last hone job.

  5. #15
    Senior Member blabbermouth engine46's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003 View Post
    What you did with the Dremmel IS amazing, that is high quality work Engine.
    I have mentioned it before & had some negative responses but all you have to do is be very careful with them & watch which direction the thing is turning. You never want it to turn against the edge. As I said before, I bought Lynn's dvd & he showed enough on there to learn how to use one correctly on a straight. Thanks for the compliment ultrasoundguy2003. I have made some really shiny razors from piss poor looking condition. Those little buffing wheel last about one per blade most of the time. They come 5-6 in a pack so they are cheap enough. I've had several that turned out real nice like that Boker Imperial as long as they weren't rusty & all pitted. You can still make them look good if they do but one w/o rust makes it so much better. The tarnish that you normally can't get by hand is so much easier using a Dremel & some Maas! I love it.

  6. #16
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    I'm using something a little different than you guys (I do have a dremel and one with a flex attachment, but...)..

    It looks like this and I chuck it in a lathe and put 220 wet and dry on it. Woodcraft has them, I got mine at rockler. They're a bit cumbersome for paper, but the rubber top layer on the drum has a lot of give, which makes 220 wet and dry leave a forgiving finish. The downside is that you have to approach with caution on one side of a razor and avoid getting a catch or the thing could literally just rip a chunk out of a razor (I did that long ago with a dremel and pinged a chunk out of a razor, junking it instantly).

    Name:  drum.jpg
Views: 90
Size:  15.1 KB

    Of course, you have to have a lathe to use something like this - it's a heavy stable platform to use it and it allows you to keep control of the razor with two hands. I chucked it in a drill chuck, and not a jaw chuck - which would just have all kinds of spinning metal parts that could catch and fling a razor.

    (I have no idea what the "right" way to do any of this is - I could stand to go back and run the drum into the top corner of the razor near the shoulder in the first picture, I see there's a spot that I missed a bit)

  7. #17
    Senior Member blabbermouth engine46's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveW View Post
    I'm using something a little different than you guys (I do have a dremel and one with a flex attachment, but...)..

    It looks like this and I chuck it in a lathe and put 220 wet and dry on it. Woodcraft has them, I got mine at rockler. They're a bit cumbersome for paper, but the rubber top layer on the drum has a lot of give, which makes 220 wet and dry leave a forgiving finish. The downside is that you have to approach with caution on one side of a razor and avoid getting a catch or the thing could literally just rip a chunk out of a razor (I did that long ago with a dremel and pinged a chunk out of a razor, junking it instantly).

    Name:  drum.jpg
Views: 90
Size:  15.1 KB

    Of course, you have to have a lathe to use something like this - it's a heavy stable platform to use it and it allows you to keep control of the razor with two hands. I chucked it in a drill chuck, and not a jaw chuck - which would just have all kinds of spinning metal parts that could catch and fling a razor.

    (I have no idea what the "right" way to do any of this is - I could stand to go back and run the drum into the top corner of the razor near the shoulder in the first picture, I see there's a spot that I missed a bit)
    I use a Dremel for polishing blades on straights & it works well but like I mentioned above this, I have had some negative responses on here about using a Dremel on a blade but the secret is that you have to watch which way the tool is turning. You always want the Dremel to turn away from the cutting edge. If you go to this page & scroll down a little, you will see my Boker Imperial I polished with my Dremel:
    http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...erhood-60.html
    I have Lynn's dvd that tells how to use a Dremel in the right way which is how I started doing it & so far i haven't damaged any blades out of many I have polished! I have had some people say that they would never use a Dremel on a blade but I respect them for their suggestions.
    Last edited by engine46; 11-10-2014 at 04:05 PM.

  8. #18
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by engine46 View Post
    I have had some people say that they would never use a Dremel on a blade but I respect them for their suggestions.
    I would, and I would do exactly what you're suggesting, using it so that it's turning swarf off the end of the blade while it's turning, regardless of where it is. I got in trouble with one early on thinking I was a safe distance from the edge and then I got a catch on a drum. Bang!!

    I used the lathe drum in this case because I wanted fast due some relatively deep pitting. If I didn't have a lathe, I'd have used the dremel because it wouild've taken hours and hours to hand sand and I would've lost focus.

  9. #19
    Senior Member blabbermouth engine46's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveW View Post
    I would, and I would do exactly what you're suggesting, using it so that it's turning swarf off the end of the blade while it's turning, regardless of where it is. I got in trouble with one early on thinking I was a safe distance from the edge and then I got a catch on a drum. Bang!!

    I used the lathe drum in this case because I wanted fast due some relatively deep pitting. If I didn't have a lathe, I'd have used the dremel because it wouild've taken hours and hours to hand sand and I would've lost focus.
    I have done the same thing but luckily, nothing happened. No damage was done. It works great the way I say to use it or you can get into trouble.

  10. #20
    Senior Member blabbermouth OCDshaver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveW View Post
    It's strange how the razor market loves only NOS looking razors when it comes to driving the price high, because there sure isn't much different in the shave. Different market, different rules, but I'm happy in this case to refurbish one that doesn't garner much interest.

    Crazy how much they bring even rusty, though!!
    Yes, but you have to know what you're doing in order to take advantage of a razor in lesser condition. Some of you can recognize a razor that can be brought back and have the ability to do it. The rest of us look at those with skepticism knowing that we might not be able to tell one that is too far gone or we will have to calculate the cost of having it restored and rolling that into the overall cost. So there is greater demand for those in NOS condition. All that said, I'm very grateful for the price that I got my NOS Filly Muleta. Obviously it was a fraction of what is normally asked for this razor. And it IS a magnificent razor. Congrats on the purchase and restoration.

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