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Thread: A couple more into rotation
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04-19-2015, 07:59 PM #21
By the way, sweet razor. And looks good. The cr/ox will take out more of the fine scratches over flitz
Mike
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04-19-2015, 11:02 PM #22
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
- Location
- Livonia, MI
- Posts
- 35
Thanked: 1Thank you. But it still needs some work. I am finding that the 400 paper is a bit coarse except for real rust and pitting. It sure removes the shine that exists and it takes alot longer to get those scratches polished out with the finer grit papers.
Still working on obtaining some cr/ox. It's not readily available at HD, Lowes, etc. Have read about "pure" cr/ox (which is supposed to be 0.5 micron) but have looked to Ebay-Amazon as both SRD & Maggards are out of stock. Some are cosmetic powders, others just green block stick or paste. So are there any recommendations as to type or brand? Or might other products be the same, like the white (fine) and jewelers rouges (finer) such as DICO WR-1 and JR-1? These sold as buffing compounds, but I haven't tried them yet.
Same problem tracking down Star Bright products. A local marine dealer may have some, including their Step 2. Have you tried that, and if so, is it just a finer product, grit-wise? In the meantime, I can always fall back on Mequiars Plastic for scales, and Flitz, MAAS or Mothers for the metal.
Finally here's my meager offering. For fly tying, I mounted my Norvise (the greatest for that) on a wooden cutting board. But it works also for sanding and polishing. The blade with or without scales sits well in the routed catch trap. While I almost prefer fingertips to control the paper, I have cut a couple of erasers (not fingers) when I couldn't find one made round. The magnified light from fly-tying is also great for this work, especially for pinning and dremel work. I will get back here when I'm happy with the Black Demon. Lord knows there's more work ahead of me.Last edited by Flybare; 04-20-2015 at 12:11 AM.
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04-20-2015, 12:39 PM #23
Well im a marine mechanic so starbrite is easily at hand. I dont know if the cr/ox spray would work i use the crayon. Seems like everyone is out of it though. In your cigar box, what's the razor with the sword scales. It looks cool. Kinda something i had in mind for my c&s till it broke
Mike
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04-20-2015, 12:40 PM #24
Thats funny. I use my fly tying table for sanding too
Mike
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04-20-2015, 12:45 PM #25
the fly bench/work bench
Mike
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04-20-2015, 02:07 PM #26
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
- Location
- Livonia, MI
- Posts
- 35
Thanked: 1It's a nice Geneva (NY) Cutlery blade with slight smile, in George Washington scales. An Ebay purchase I would have bought just for the Geo. W's.
Any ideas on how to restore the dark lettering without ruining the scale surface? I'm tempted to use permanent marker and quickly wipe the surface.
I've fished AuSable most of my life but have listed cabin on North Branch (brookie water) for sale (too small for permanent home). C&R all year; season opens 4/30.
Hooray, Hooray, the First of May, outdoor games begin that day!!
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04-20-2015, 03:20 PM #27
From the angle view, it looks like you can save the lettering
For the lettering, I have had some success with the enamel/ lacquer ink ball point pens from a craft store.The tip is small and will usually stay with in the tiny depressions. I use lapping, wet, film after the ink is dry to remove all the overrun without digging it out of the depressions.
The pend\s are available in many colors including silver and gold.
Good luck!
~RichardBe yourself; everyone else is already taken.
- Oscar Wilde
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04-20-2015, 10:17 PM #28
So what your saying is paint over the letters. Then clean/sand the blade. Then what aceatone/laquer thinner to remove paint?
Mike
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04-20-2015, 11:03 PM #29
Flybare are the letters raised or cut in to the scales. I trout finished the Greenbrier River in West Virginia till 1984 North and South Fork and also the Little River stocked trout now I just steelhead fish the tributaries of Lake Erie it's closer to home and the fish are bigger
Mike
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04-21-2015, 01:11 PM #30