Thread: G10 and Teak wood Score!

I like tung oil, but that term can mean a range of products. Anymore I make my own oil finishes. The hardening oil finishes can take longer on teak because of the natural oils. Some like to not finish teak and you can purchase teak oil to refresh them, but as I said, I prefer CA..
Warping shouldn't occur as result of the finishing process, but warping is more likely later with an oil finish than a hard coating.

Teak is very pleasant to work with. It is oily, however, so it tends to gunk up your abrasives. Wet sand and/or clean your abrasives regularly with a rubber block or brush.

I like to leave teak as natural as possible. Just a little teak oil finish. Teak is one of the few woods that I think looks better as it ages. My mom used a paring knife with a curly teak handle and it just looks better and better every time I see it. The grain really starts to pop after it's been used and washed for a couple of years.

Phillip

Love the way your hands feel after working with teak,almost works like a lanolin skin balm.
As easy as it is to machine tho it can be tough on tools as it has a very high silica content.
My favorite finish is a minimalist approch,Artist grade clear linseed oil cut 50/50 with zippo lighter fluid,let dry,knock it down between about six coats.enjoy

You see what I mean about finishing?
My biggest problem with teak is if I have been working a tougher material I can sometimes sand right through the scale.

Wow lots of good advices there And thanks for all of them ill try to keep them in mind when im doing the next scale project from the Teak wood i got. Take care and have a good day gents