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10-10-2012, 02:40 PM #1
A item i ben working on cleaning the rust off of it.
I ben wondering should i just buy one of those hand held drills to drill out the pin.
Should i just file the metal down to it's no longer has a damage tip.
Cause the steel on this vintage german blade is nice stuff.
Not alot of metal is missing from the edge or possible non.
the spin is shiny from me trying to rub away the rust.
it came almust 100 percent rusty.
would be awesome if i found it with out that damage tip.
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10-10-2012, 04:51 PM #2
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
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- Mid state Illinois
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- 1,448
Thanked: 247Lot's of times a file on razor steel is just going to result in a big chunk of your blade cracking off. Honestly, I don't think this one is a candidate for restoration. Maybe just something to learn on. If it were mine, and I wanted to do something about the tip, I'd use a slow turning wetgrinder to do it. Actually I'd use a fast moving normal bench grinder. But I have a little bit of experience with it, and have only burned stuff when I was trying to. Files are moderately useless on a razor after it's been tempered. I don't see the pin you're talking about Kyle. Use the search function at the top right of your SRP screen. There's tons of information on this kind of stuff there.
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10-10-2012, 09:22 PM #3
Yeah, I'm going with Joe on this one; once you grind that blade down enough to make it usable it's gonna be < 3/8, make a good side burn or facial hair shaper, but I honestly would just practice your sanding and buffing skills. Can't see the scales, but if they are good you could keep those and use them later when you clean them up; but this one would be a good piece to learn with. As far as unpinning, you could get a dremel with the cutter bit that looks like a skil saw blade, make a small cut to the center of the pin and use a 1/16" punch to remove it. I use a pair of large flush cutters I got off amazon and snip it just under the washer then punch it through. Your call, either way works fine, but I am not crazy about drilling out the center cause one slip and those scales can snap, or you enlarge the hole that can't be fixed.
Mastering implies there is nothing more for you to learn of something... I prefer proficient enough to not totally screw it up.
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10-10-2012, 11:50 PM #4
I'd flush cut the end (toe) with a Dremel or other cutting wheel at a slow speed. That'll take care of your missing chunk. If you want to continue to work on rust removal I say this is a great candidate.
I agree with the other two; I'm not sure it will take an edge, it really depends on how deep the rust goes. It may be possible to hone through it, but you won't know until you try.
As it appears you're not out much, I'd keeping going till you tire of it.
If you tire of rubbing, you could always try using citric acid or white vinegar as a rust remover. It requires some attention, but if you're rubbing that much already, attention doesn't seem to be an issue. There's a link in the workshop right now about it with a document reference. It's just called Rust Removal. I intend to give it a try when I have another razor that needs some attention.Do to budget cuts the light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off; we apologize for any inconvenience.