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Thread: Frameback W&B
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05-07-2013, 02:55 AM #11
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The Following User Says Thank You to PierreR For This Useful Post:
Geezer (05-14-2013)
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05-07-2013, 02:59 AM #12
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05-07-2013, 08:58 AM #13
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- May 2011
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- Mount Torrens, South Australia
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Thanked: 485That's very nice. I like the words on the tang; you can't argue with those words! The words remind me of those on many De Pews 'the 'perfect' razor'!
Stranger, if you passing meet me and desire to speak to me, why should you not speak to me? And why should I not speak to you?
Walt Whitman
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05-18-2013, 01:48 AM #14
So I took your advice, and just gave this one a good cleaning, I gave the scales a light sanding, and polished them up. The blade was strictly just a polish/buff job. There are a lot of deeper scratch lines from the original grinding, and I chose to leave them as made. So this was a restore, not so much a "make it perfect" as it was a make it like it was. Let me know what you think!
My friends call me Bear.
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05-18-2013, 01:57 AM #15
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Thanked: 4249You did a fine job Pierre, the blade looks nice and clean, the scales came out really good as well, Enjoy!
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The Following User Says Thank You to Martin103 For This Useful Post:
PierreR (05-18-2013)
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05-18-2013, 02:16 AM #16
Great looking restore.
Classic I really like it Pierre.It is just Whisker Whacking
Relax and Enjoy!
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The Following User Says Thank You to pfries For This Useful Post:
PierreR (05-18-2013)
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05-18-2013, 06:13 AM #17
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- May 2011
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- Mount Torrens, South Australia
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Thanked: 485Oh that's extremely cool. That's F#*&ing excellent.
I think all my framebacks have grinding marks. Love the shape of the tail on that, too.
Did you just hand polish or use a machine?Stranger, if you passing meet me and desire to speak to me, why should you not speak to me? And why should I not speak to you?
Walt Whitman
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The Following User Says Thank You to carlmaloschneider For This Useful Post:
PierreR (05-18-2013)
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05-18-2013, 06:39 AM #18
Ahh, what a nice razor and well done with the restore!
On Swedish framebacks the frame's most often, if not always, made of brass (so it's softer than the metal in the blade and therefor gets more wear/metal removed when honed). Here's one of mine, with a "clean" frame (they was plated in the same metal color as the blade, originally):
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The Following User Says Thank You to Mikael For This Useful Post:
PierreR (05-18-2013)
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05-18-2013, 06:46 AM #19
Nice Work!
I am also curious if you did the work by hand or with the help of machines. Also let us know how you proceded with the restoration!!
Again, Good Job!
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The Following User Says Thank You to cudarunner For This Useful Post:
PierreR (05-18-2013)
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05-18-2013, 03:22 PM #20
As far as the restore goes. I started with the scales, they had a lot of raised grain that the oil treatment did little for, so I cleaned them with a diluted mix of acetone and soapy water, dried thoroughly then lightly sanded. I used 400 to 1000 grit papers, wrapped around a little block of G10 used as a sanding block. The block helped a lot on the chamfered edges of the scales, to avoid rounding the edges. Then I used a tight sewn cloth buffing wheel to "erase" the fine scratch lines from sanding. I started with a product called ZAM a green scratchless buffing compound, followed by a light buff on a loose cloth wheel using white diamond buffing compound.
For the blade, I cleaned it with acetone, and it was a straight buff. There was next to no pitting, just a little dark spotted patina, and dried gunk here and there. The notch had a tad of corrosion, that I removed with some 600 grit paper wrapped around a 3/16 brass rod. For the buff I started with green chromium---- oxide on a tight wheel, followed by Zam, and white diamond.
So as far as machine work, it was a simple bench grinder, with cloth wheels in place of the typical grinding wheels.My friends call me Bear.