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  1. #1
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    Default Soap/Cream/Oil Opinions

    I'm still trying to build my den up to a respectable level. While doing some research, I stumbled across some products that I thought I'd ask about.

    Bliss Thermal Shaving Cream - claims to heat on contact with face. Sounds like that could increase razor burn to me, but what do I know. It's interesting if it actually helps to recreate that old-timey barbershop sensation (which I am too young to have experienced )

    Zirh shave gel - apparently clear and has aloe as it's primary ingredient. Anyone use this stuff?

    What exactly is the difference between a shave cream and a soap? Is it the consistency of the final product e.g. hard and solid = soap, while soft, viscous = cream? Trying to stay away from preferences, but is there a functional difference?

    And the oils? I can understand the use to help soften whiskers, but does anyone actually shave off just oil? What advice would you give to a newb who may/may not want to try this technique.

    Thanks.

    Shannon

  2. #2
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    I've heard nothing but bad things about the Zirh gel but having never used it, I can't really say.

    The primary difference between shaving cream and shaving soap is how they are saponified. Hard soaps are saponified with sodium hydroxide and cream soap is saponified with potassium hydroxide and sodium hydroxide. The ratio of KOH:NaOH (along with the water content) determines the consistency of the cream. Using just potassium hydroxide would give you liquid soap.
    I wouldn't say there is much of a functional difference between the two but some people prefer one over the other.

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    durdensbuddy (02-25-2009)

  4. #3
    Senior Member dward's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by durdensbuddy View Post
    Bliss Thermal Shaving Cream - claims to heat on contact with face. Sounds like that could increase razor burn to me, but what do I know. It's interesting if it actually helps to recreate that old-timey barbershop sensation (which I am too young to have experienced )
    With my shave prep and hot lather mug I am not quite sure what purpose this would serve. Plus, I don't any additional chemicals on my face...

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    durdensbuddy (02-27-2009)

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    Senior Member Dr_Phong's Avatar
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    I haven't posted here in a while, but it never ceases to amaze me how many chemists and metallurgists hang out here.

    Anyway, as most things, it comes down to personal preference. I have some creams and some soaps. I find the creams lather easily where I have a harder time with the soaps.

    My personal fave is Evelyn and Crabtree Nomad Calming Shave Cream. Smells great, shaves well. It comes in both cream and soap.

    The great thing about getting started in this kind of shaving is that there is all kinds of stuff to try. But yes, I would stay away from Zhir and many products like it. They just don't really work well with brushes. Stick with the "Old School" products- you won't be disappointed.

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    durdensbuddy (02-27-2009)

  8. #5
    Senior Member blabbermouth jnich67's Avatar
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    Dr. Phong beat me to it! I prefer to stay with traditional methods and products that have proven themselves over time. Why mess around with gimmicks and products simply designed to separate you from your money? That's how we ended up with 5 bladed cartridge razors.

    Anyway, IMHO, traditional shaving soaps probably take a little more practice to get used to lathering. I find their lather a little lighter and a little slicker. They allow me more feedback on what is happening at the edge. Creams tend to provide a little more cushion and protection, but allow less feedback and slicktion. They also hold scents better. I prefer soaps, but use both depending on my mood. In the end, you'll have try a few different products and see what you like. You can check the review section for some ideas.

    I've tried pre-shave oils and found they are of little benefit. Some like them, but to me they are a waste of money. YMMV and all that.

    Jordan

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  10. #6
    Comrade in Arms Alraz's Avatar
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    I have used both Zirh and some shaving oils. Zirh is a non foaming cream that makes you skin numb on contact. I did not like it because it felt like I could lose control of the razor and cut myself. Does it work? yes if you like that sensation but I have to say that it makes your skin and beard slick for the shave. For the price, I would not recommend it.

    I have used some shaving oils that contain essential oils. They also do not foam and the sensation is quite pleasant, especially if you use them warm. The essential oils in these products prevent irritation and somwhat condition yous skin, besides preping your beard for the shave. Other than not foaming, the ones I used felt pretty good and shaved well. I prefer foaming soaps myself.

    Regarding the differences between soaps and cream, there are differences beyond the appearance of the finished product. Shave soaps and creams require the use of different ingredients in their manufacture. Both can be made using the hydrolysis of triglycerides (fats/oils) by a strong base like lye in a process called saponification.

    Saponification - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    Soap - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    Obviously, the cosistency of the final product depends on the composition of the fats used the base used, water content and "extras" used. Fats that contain fatty acids with longer chains make soaps that melt at higher temperatures (more solid). Also the degree of saturatoin of the fatty acids determine the melting point of the fatty acid, with saturated fatty acids melting at higher temperatures. If you want to read more, you may want to check this:

    Fatty acid - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    The base used to saponify the "fats" also determine the consistency of the final product. Because potasium is more soluble in organic compounds (fats) than sodium, for a given fatty acid composition used, the potasium would lead to a more "liquidy" consistency.
    And of course, water and extras can affect the consistency of the product.

    However, besides the ingredients, the most important difference in making a soap or a cream is the process involved. Most creams are not made using saponification process exclusively and they frequently are made using bases that are even more soluble than inorganic bases like sodium or nd potasium hydroxyde.

    Whether you use a soap, a cream or a combination (uberlather) is strictly a matter of personal preference as they should both form good lather.

    Chemists, where are they? ;-) Ooops, uncovered!!! ;-)

    Al raz.
    Last edited by Alraz; 02-26-2009 at 11:34 PM.

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  12. #7
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    I think I got blinded by the science there guys! That's a lot to take in, but thanks. I think I'm going to have to find some creams to try out if they really are slicker than soaps that might prevent a couple of the scars that my face seems to want to develop. (Should've waited and found a round point I could afford, the spike drags on my all the time).

    If i can paraphrase what's been stated the basic difference is in processing and bases used. Creams are typically easier to generate a lather from and hold onto scent better than soaps. The advantage of soaps is that you get my razor feedback and can more easily adjust your stroke to improve shaving results? I know there wasn't a quiz, but did I cover the salient points?

  13. #8
    Comrade in Arms Alraz's Avatar
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    " I think I got blinded by the science there guys!". I totally apologize for confusing you, this obviously is not what I had in mind. I thought that you were interested in knowing what made the difference between a soap and a cream. I now see what you are interested in (performance), so here it goes:

    No real difference per se, there are good and bad examples of both. I think that you should try a few of each before you decide what you like and what works for you. You have several general categories to chose from:

    * Soaps come in 2 basic varieties

    - Glycerin based are typically softer, in general they are not the best performers, they produce acceptable lather and the high glycerin content can have a moisturizing effect on your skin, they tend to hold scents better though have a limited shelf live. They are also on the cheaper side so they are good if you operate on low budget.

    - Milled soaps are more expensive to produce but they also perform better (form better lather) than glycerin based soaps they last much longer and improve performance with age, the high end examples have conditioners but some others are not particularly good in this department, these are the classic soaps.

    * Creams are much easier to work with if you are a newbie because it is easy to load the brush with them but if you can also over shot the water, some give the impression that past a certain point you go nowhere trying to build lather, the amount of scent and conditioning are not limiting but some can dry you skin badly, they also can have a limited shelf live.

    * Hybrids (soft soaps) these can be the best performers of all because they have some of the benefits of all of the above but they can be $$$$$. No constraints in the amounts of conditioners and scents and some contain essential oils* that provide fragrance and some health benefits.

    * almost any soap can be made using essential oils but those than do are typically more expensive.

    If that were not enough, you also can buy non forming creams like Zirh, etc. and oils. Not many people like these in this forum (as far as I can tell). I told you my experience with them already. You may want to check this thread with links to the wiki on how to build lather with soaps and creams as well as their combination (uberlather). There are references of potential problems too:

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/shavi...e-proraso.html

    Sorry for the confusion.

    Al raz.
    Last edited by Alraz; 02-27-2009 at 05:27 PM.

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