Thread: Refreshing a Tony Miller Heirloom Horsehide strop...

Buying a pre-owned strop was a risky move. But it was a Tony Miller and the price was less than the dollars burning a hole in my pocket, so...

It has 3/8" repair at the top about 1" below the hardware connection. Seems like a really awkward place to put a nick and will never be in my stropping path. The hardware on Tony Miller strops are usually set so all the screw heads are facing the same way.. mine aren't so I am assuming it was opened up and the leather was possibly flipped top to bottom which would make more sense but still, it's a precarious place for the previous owner to have nicked it. Regardless....

It's well broken in. Soft. No rough spots and the repair can't be felt at all.

The natural leather has a light discoloration, but it looks like its just wear on the surface. I could easily leave it alone and might, if cleaning it is a bigger deal than I want to tackle. Should horsehide leather need to be treated AFTER saddle soap? If so, would something like Lexol be appropriate?

The linen was treated with CrOx. I did the same on the back side of the poly web on my SRD Latigo strop after a conversation with Lynn, so I am okay with it having been done. But it was treated on the outside of the linen, not the side facing the leather. I use the outside of the poly web after every shave to be sure the edge is dry and will use the linen in the same fashion, so I intend to flip the linen front to back so the clean side is exposed. Is the back side of the horsehide of any use? The CrOx may leave some residue or staining on the back of the leather once I flip the linen, which I would avoid if the staining is something I will regret. I can also insert a piece of cloth between the leather and linen.

This is one of those things where I could leave it alone and likely be fine, but it's my nature to try to improve things.. Suggestions or thoughts are welcome and encouraged!

If that is his heirloom horse I have the same one. Over time and with use it will darken and develop a polished look to it. I probably wouldn't clean it unless it really was dirty. if it's dry a tad of neatsfoot should do it or you could work in the oil from your palm too.

I personally have this thing about any prep that uses water like saddle soap. The stuff was made for cleaning saddles which are a particular type of leather. I don't think water goes with most leathers. Preps like Bick or Lexol are far better, I think for cleaning.