Thread: The best finishing paste.

Just because I've always had to take the path less traveled, I use cerium oxide, optical grade. Smooths the edge quite nicely, I also have CrOx but prefer the cerium.

SolitarySoldier,

I have had some mixed results with the Thiers Issard Pate De Rasior. This is not to do with the pastes sharpening ability, but to do with issues in applying it to the strop.

I have found that when you try and apply it to smooth leather surfaces, it tend to clump together like eraser crumbs - I had far better success by applying it to fabrics - in my case, an SRD cotton strop.

It is also very sticky after application. Some users have reported better results if the leather and paste are heated.

In the end, I preferred to use CrOx and diamond on hard leather paddles.

Have fun

Best regards

Russ

Diamond and CrOx pasted should be used sparingly - they can result in 'aggressive' edges. The Red and Black paste (used in that order) are far more forgiving and add a little extra but not at the sake of comfort. I have a double sided travel strop which I cleaned up and used about 600 grit paper on to create a sueded effect - this holds the pastes well. Using 40 to 50 laps on each side works for me.

I use the TI paste, CrOX, and Iron Oxide to refresh...
I applied the TI to an old leather strop, smooth side. It took a little work and rubbing to get it to take, but it did eventually. Just apply it sparingly (light X patterns the length of the strop) and rub in with your palm. I warmed the leather over a heater vent and this was all it needed to take in the paste.

My method (for my TI C135) is:
15 laps on TI pasted strop
15 laps CrOX on balsa
25 laps Iron Oxide on balsa
Plain webbing and leather to finish.

For my Dovo and Lafayette razors, I use half of the above to touch up, which works fantastically.

Originally Posted by Denvernoob

I use the TI paste, CrOX, and Iron Oxide to refresh...
I applied the TI to an old leather strop, smooth side. It took a little work and rubbing to get it to take, but it did eventually. Just apply it sparingly (light X patterns the length of the strop) and rub in with your palm. I warmed the leather over a heater vent and this was all it needed to take in the paste.

My method (for my TI C135) is:
15 laps on TI pasted strop
15 laps CrOX on balsa
25 laps Iron Oxide on balsa
Plain webbing and leather to finish.

For my Dovo and Lafayette razors, I use half of the above to touch up, which works fantastically.

Sounds like a lot, noob! After honing, I usually do 5 laps on CroOx defore the fabric/leather. Any more could be too much. Easier to do more later if needed than to start over! Be certain to wipe that blade off before hitting the leather!

I have used Crox . Maggards Razors has a quality grade that costs $6 plus shipping. I put mine on felt with good results. My definition of good is crisp and edgy , super sharp, If I have a so so honing session Crox makes me look like a pro. For that reason I put it away and made myself improve on my honing skills. Many folks espouse using less than 10 strokes. Another school of thought espouses using 30 plus laps. I tried it both ways. Both work. More strokes on Crox left me with a wire brush edge feel. Factors to consider Quality of Crox. Material it is used on. And number of strokes. Combination of these variables will give a larger spectrum of results.
One thing for sure. No one has said after using Crox I have a dull edge. Never. Find what works for you. Good stroping

My favorite method is to apply a little abrasive-free paste, and then some slurry from my extremely fine natural water stone (mine is a Chinese water stone). Let it dry, and even it out with your thumb, and then strop a few passes. Strop with fabric next, and then plain leather. My razors have never been better.