Thread: Newb strop questions on conditioning used strops

I've read alot on the reconditioning of old strops as I just aquired an Ebay special for my beginning months. I'm trying to find answers before asking the same question that countless newbs have asked before me....

I've read many posts about cleaning the linen and rewaxing it (or pasting it) but just how much wax should be there? I know the wax on this one is dried out pretty bad and has cracked off in some spots, but there is a lot of wax loaded in the cloth- should there be a lot loaded or is this build up from years of use?
I noticed some people mentioned not waxing the linen- it the wax only for stiffening (I saw mention of starching) or is there a consensus for adding draw too?

Next, the leather side is nice and supple with minor wear but no gouges or nicks. I noticed while attempting to use it there is some sort of dressing on it. Possibly even shoe polish?? (It's black) I've read about cleaning the leather, but just how much dressing should be put back on the strop after cleaning? I'm getting "dressing" on the razor under the spine edge after stropping which would seem a bit much, yet it doesn't come off on my hands when rubbing or handling the strop.
I've used Neets foot oil and leather wax on other items (like boots), when the leather stops absorbing you stop, is it the same or is that too much dressing?

Try applying some rubbing alcohol to a soft cloth and use it to rub your waxed linen strop. Not only will this clean the strop, but I noticed when doing this to mine, it acted as a solvent to the wax and evenly redistributed the wax over the strop.

You might try this on the back side, or on a small portion of the strop, to test this out first.

I put just enough dressing on my leather strop to cover the surface lightly, then rub in well with my palm. I will sometimes finish with a clean dry cloth to remove any excess.

Scott

Currently looking for an iron to melt some pure beeswax and treat one of my linens.

Plan to drip on the wax, then spread as evenly as I can. Will wait to dry and probably scrape the excess with a dull butter knife or something similar

Will report later how it went

Cheers
Ivo

Results:

linen took more wax than I expected. a bit uneven despite the fact that I ironed it in - may try the alcohol suggestion from Scott to dissolve and redistribute. Or try to reapply tomorrow.

Like the stiffness and now when I run my fingers I get the squeaky sound - like I did on my snowboard. Seems to work fine on a blade.

But the real treat was the unused vintage Russia shell that I reconditioned recently - what a pleasure to strop on this one!

Cheers
Ivo

Tried Scott's rubbing alcohol idea.

There was no effect whatsoever. Which makes sense as I didn't expect alcohol to soften the wax much from earlier empirical observations.

I am thinking that Scott's strop has something else in the wax (if it's wax at all) that made this possible.

I will be reapplying wax with the iron again, I think

Cheers
Ivo

Turpentine may do the trick.

Reapplied with iron and scraped afterwards. This was natural wax (not white) and it's not pretty... looks like crapp, to be exact.

However, I think I like the stiff feel of the result. If it works well - this is what really counts for me, not the looks.

Cheers
Ivo

izlat, when I want to melt wax I just stick it in a jar and stand this jar in boiling water from a kettle. If I'm making a wax to finish some wood or leather goods I add a little gum turpentine to make it more workable. Well, I actually add a number of different materials and quantities in most cases (like carnauba wax, lanolin, a little oil, different ratios of turpentine...).
The finishes and carnauba wax/creme I have bought in jars before usually used quite a bit of turpentine afaik.

I don't know if these are suitable for strop use as I've never tried them; The oils for leather use are easily found and seem ideal.

If you're getting buildup from your leather strop on your razor, then you should definitely clean the strop and recondition with Neatsfoot Oil or Mink Oil or some other leather conditioner, just to mitigate the effect of stripping the current film away.

X

Thanks guys. I'll follow Xman's advice as soon as I get home next week on the cleaning. I was planning on trying Scotts trick too but didn't get to it before I left. (got the iso out onto the counter....wonder where it will have migrated to by the time I get back )

So, I guess the answer, then is just enough wax and not too much.

I happened to pickup an Illinois 800 something Russian strop too (when you bid on ONE item you never win, but bid on Two at the same time and win the BOTH.... Murphy's law.....) I was able to play with that before I left and noticed the unwaxed linen and courser leather DID raise an edge on 2 blades that passed the HHT finally!