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03-08-2015, 12:36 PM #1
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Thanked: 25Residue on blade after stropping?
I have an Illinois 127 and a SRD Premier 1. With the 127, I notice that after stropping, there is often a brown oily like residue on the blade bevel; it looks almost gummy, but wipes off easily. I notice the same thing (but less often and seems to be less thick?) after the SRD strop on occasion, but if I strop more on the SRD, it tends to go away. I think it is oil residue maybe? DOes this mean the strop has too much oil, needs more breaking in, or am I using too much pressure? I strop with the strop either flat on the counter or laid over a 3x11 metal strop base so I don't roll the edge like I might if I used the strop as a hanging strop.
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03-08-2015, 12:39 PM #2
Did you oil the strop?
Sounds like there is too much oil on it?
Ed
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03-08-2015, 12:40 PM #3
Have you oiled your strop or used any type of diamond spray on the surface?
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03-08-2015, 01:20 PM #4
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Thanked: 25The 127 has been like that OOTB; it also seems to have a lot of draw to it as well. Never oiled it or used any compounds. If I rub my hand on it until it's warm, I notice more residue. Maybe I need to rub and strop on it more to get rid of excess oil? The SRD Premier 1 does this much less, but if I rub my hands on the strop, it increases the draw and the residue left behind as well. Again, never oiled or used compounds on it. When I don't rub my palm on the SRB and strop 60-80 times on the leather, it usually doesn't leave residue, but if I do only 30 strops or do several blades in a row, it leaves more residue? I have an untreated horsehide and untreated Roo that don't seem to leave any residue.
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03-08-2015, 06:40 PM #5
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Thanked: 168If it is too oily put it on hot place and the oil will gett out on the surface . Clean it or put some toilett paper all over it to suck the oil out .
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03-08-2015, 06:47 PM #6
If it is too oily; place it on a flat surface and cover it with brown wrapping paper and place a weight upon it overnight. See what comes up. Some folks place a few layers of paper on the strop and then use a flat iron on warm along the strop and change papers and do it again. Too hot will brittle the strop!
YMMV
~RichardBe yourself; everyone else is already taken.
- Oscar Wilde
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03-08-2015, 06:48 PM #7
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Thanked: 25I will try it on the 127 first, thanks for the ideas!
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03-08-2015, 07:12 PM #8
Some new strops bleed wax and other treatments to the surface for a while. The strop surface may show a splotchy or uneven appearance on its surface. I use a clean wet then wrung out towel to wipe the strop surface uniformly clean. The damp strop surface dries quickly. This treatment may have to be repeated. Eventually, the strop gets broken-in and rarely needs wiping. Draw may be affected for a short while, but will return to normal.
Before stropping my razors, I wipe the leather lightly with the palm of my hand. So far, I have needed no other treatment. Dried out vintage strops may need more aggressive handling for restoration.Last edited by sheajohnw; 03-08-2015 at 07:34 PM.
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03-08-2015, 08:57 PM #9
Sometimes it is from the finishing or dressing. Certain types of strops seem to do it more than others. I know the latigos do. Usually after several uses it stops.
No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero
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The Following User Says Thank You to thebigspendur For This Useful Post:
Geezer (03-08-2015)
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03-09-2015, 07:08 PM #10
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Thanked: 3164That is true, nearly every strop that has received an oil or oil/wax stuffing during tanning (that is most leathers) exhibit this to a greater or lesser degree.
The old, oily thick latigo used to gather an appreciable layer of oily gunk under the shoulder of the razor. English Bridle - a little less, depending on formulation. Even shell cordovan does it.
Leathers that have had the surface napped (milled or corrected) do it too, but the residue is dry and there might not be much evidence of it.
Some layers, called splits because the leather is thick enough to allow it to be made into 3 or more layers, does it too,but for a slightly different reason. This is because although the split layers have had the top layer rolled with a burnishing or slip-roller to make them smooth and shiny, then have had a pore-patterned roller applied to make the upper side resemble skin in every way, the burnishing has forced the fibres form splitting and subsequent milling into the surface - it has not removed them and they will lift out, along with the oils inherent in the leather to leave a residue under the spine.
The oil becomes more 'mobile' in warm weather, so more of it will leach out in the summer. Just use a cloth (slightly damp is best) if it builds up very fast , and/or your palm.
It is a natural thing.
Regards,
NeilLast edited by Neil Miller; 03-09-2015 at 08:50 PM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Neil Miller For This Useful Post:
Geezer (03-09-2015)