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Thread: Linen Substitute....why?
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05-01-2015, 03:14 PM #11
The material is sewn on all sides if you get the bake pro version. It's almost 3 feet long and wide enough for 2+ strops. The piece I show is folded so it's much larger.
No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero
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05-01-2015, 03:39 PM #12
Some people try substitutes for the same reason that they try different hones, even though the ones they have work perfectly well. Variety being the spice of life. Others try different stuff because what they have isn't working, or they can't get what they want for one reason or another.
Keith De Grau (HandAmerican) used to make some mighty good strops, and always with smooth and rough leather component. He felt the rough leather was better than the linen available nowadays. So some guys like rough leather in place of a linen component. I'm not one of them, but different strokes for different folks.Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
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05-01-2015, 04:31 PM #13
I did the math and here convert it into something most people would relate it to.
My vintage linen strop (plus an insignificant amount of white paste, one side) weighs 4.0 @ 23" x 2 1/2" or 57.5 sq/inches.
1296 sq/inches per yard / 57.5 = 22.5 pieces per square yard.
22.5 pieces x 4 ounces = 90 ounce per square yard fabric. Ounces per square yard is the US standard method of describing fabric weight. I expect the rest of the textile world recognizes 90 ounces/yard as 3050g/m sq.
Convert ounces per (square yard) to grams per (square meter) - Conversion of Measurement Units
Figure todays super-duty canvas work gloves are made from 10-12 ounce/yard cloth.
Old-timey quality heavy leather work gloves use 5-6 ounce square/foot fabric which, x 9 feet/yard = 48 ounces per sq/yard.
Relatively to the hide on a decent welders- or barbed wire stringers glove, traditional linen strops are twice the weight. They also have selvage edges which do not unravel and, somewhat peculiar to strops, have an edge thickness virtually equal to the body of the strap; in other words, the edges don't bulge thicker than the strap.
The linen strop (and things like todays webbings, including seatbelts, etc.) are produced by a small subset of weavers who specialize in narrow gauge goods. It is very expensive to produce 2.5" width goods compared to 54" (or wider) fabrics. I don't know who is producing narrow gauge flax linen at 90 ounce/yard today but, I'll bet, whoever is buying it for strops would consider his source a secret. That fabrique-couche looks pretty light and I expect it would have a fraying problem but, probably, not a serious one because of the nature of flax fiber.
The couche fabric might work a wonder (never tried it) but it seems pretty lean on its own."We'll talk, if you like. I'll tell you right out, I am a man who likes talking to a man who likes to talk."
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05-01-2015, 07:46 PM #14
The material I have weighs 8.5 oz. I looked at my red imp strop and the linen part (which I consider to be premium) is actually built like a sock with a stiffening material in between.
No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero
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05-01-2015, 11:19 PM #15
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05-02-2015, 12:41 AM #16
This is true - the old guys were made from tubular webbing (24-oz/yard per side approx = 48 ounces/yard) plus a fill of cardex or whatever they called it back in the day; mylar sheet would probably do the job perfectly. Not sure how mylar thickness in mils equates to ounces/yard but I'd say some creditcard-thick mylar sheet would be perfect.
There are some weavers who make heavy fiberglass, Kevlar, Nomex and Spectra tubular webbing in 3" widths (mostly custom runs) but none to my knowledge use linen. I think you can still have it made in China.
Originally Posted by edhewitt
Trouble with raw edges (compared to selvage edges) is the fabric loses stability. Razor-whooping on linen with raw edges would probably open up the weave and allow the warp and fill to wander. No selvage edge or other type of stabilization sounds like a mechanical shortcoming for a strop.
I love textiles."We'll talk, if you like. I'll tell you right out, I am a man who likes talking to a man who likes to talk."
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The Following User Says Thank You to MisterMoo For This Useful Post:
MattCB (05-02-2015)
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05-02-2015, 11:57 AM #17
When (and if) i get some couche i'm thinking of doing Just what has been suggested, that is make a tube. the seem will be in the back so as not to interfere with stropping. the only draw back i can see is it will only be able to be used on the one side.but i can always make another if i want to apply paste or whatever.
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05-02-2015, 12:59 PM #18
If you make a sock with a seam in the back and used nylon webbing in the middle for added stiffness that should work nicely.
"The best way to have a good idea is to have a lot of ideas." -Linus Pauling
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05-02-2015, 03:02 PM #19
I'm thinking this. Take two sections of 24 inch long seat belt webbing and glue them together for rigidity. Spray both sides with 3M adhesive or wipe with rubber cement and wrap tightly with one or two layers of linen, allowing the back side to have a slight overlap or butt. That might make a fine and inexpensive one-sided linen strop.
"We'll talk, if you like. I'll tell you right out, I am a man who likes talking to a man who likes to talk."
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05-02-2015, 04:34 PM #20
I made this one from fabric store linen a while back.
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/attachm...9&d=1394118781
I later just slipped a strip of poster board paper into the back to add stiffness. It worked great and was PIFed to a newbie who needed a linen. The edges were just left as cut and never did much unraveling.