Thread: Chromium Oxide Usage

Originally Posted by Euclid440

With Chrome Oxide you can do either. A regular maintenance schedule like one a week or two will keep the edge keen and smooth, or you can strop at the slightest sign of flagging edge.

The trouble with waiting is, you may wait too long, as said. Or if the edge is damaged from stropping, Chrome Oxide may not be enough to bring the edge back, remember Chrome Ox is about 30K.

I was thinking along those lines. But I was curious to hear what our veterans/mentors had to say. I shave every other day so I am thinking once every two weeks is a good start

Often with new stroppers the spine is lifted and the edge rolled. If that is the case Chrome Oxide may not re-set the edge. But jointing the edge and re-setting on a high grit stone may. Then polish on Chrome Oxide.

That was my biggest fear as well. I do have some strop nicks that are about 1.5 inches from the paddles. Yet my strop is still very usable and the nicks give me a sign as to when to begin the flip. But from looking at the edge under a 15x photographer's loupe as well as carefully performing the "pin test" where one takes a straight pin and draws it perpendicularly from spine to edge, I was able to deduce I did not roll the edge. Plus I was able to cut arm hair on both sides of the razor. But about 15-16 laps across the CrOX was just what I needed. Plus my razor burn was greatly reduced. I know that's a lot of passes but it seemed to be what the edge I had needed

With Chrome Oxide the hardness of the substrate and pressure will affect performance. So if the edge is harsh after Chrome Oxide, first look at the edge and make sure it is chip free, use lite pressure and more laps and makes sure you are using razor quality Chrome Oxide, it is not expensive.

And make sure to wipe your razor clean after use, to prevent contamination of your leather strop.

I got my CrOX from SRD so I know I got a good quality formulation. I did watch Lynn's video about refreshing a razor with CrOX multiple times before I even placed the order. I take extra care to wipe the edge clean so as not to undo my efforts.

15-16 laps are, not a lot. As you have found, it depend on what the edge needs. Typically when honing I do 20-30 laps between stones on a Sail Cloth polyester canvas strop with no ill effects to the edge.

Pressure is the edge killer.

So while the pin test will tell you, if you have rolled the edge, if you do roll the edge and strop on both sides of the bevel with pressure, you can easily break the rolled fin off, leaving a jagged micro chipped edge that the pin will not detect.

This is where looking at the edge, straight down on the edge and from the side with magnification and strong light will give you a better idea of what is going on at the edge.

If so, micro chipping can often be jointed smooth and the bevels brought back to meeting in a few laps (10-20) of a high grit stone.

There is a recent video of Mastro Levi taking a shave ready razor and killing the edge on a glass, then stropping on Chrome Oxide leather paddle strop, about 20 laps to bring the edge back to shave ready. At about 1425 in the video.

It is an interesting video, (Mastro Levi School, How to use a Straight Razor Strop), although he does seem to use more pressure, than I recommend and also his signature “Razor Slapping Style”. He, though can get away with it, as I do believe, he has a bit of experience with the technique.

He also used way more Chrome Oxide than I have ever used, literally trowels it on with a stick …

Originally Posted by Euclid440

It is an interesting video, (Mastro Levi School, How to use a Straight Razor Strop), although he does seem to use more pressure, than I recommend and also his signature “Razor Slapping Style”. He, though can get away with it, as I do believe, he has a bit of experience with the technique.

I hope people don't try this at home. Especially the TNT while stropping

Hand America brand Chrome Oxide in the crayon, liquid and spray and Powder from Kremer Pigments are the best one I have tried. I believe the Chrome Ox sold by SRD is Hand America brand, I find the Crayon stick the easiest to use and apply.

Do not use too much as contamination of your leather strop can be an issue if not wiped from the razor completely. And really you do not need much to strop a razor.

Do not use Chrome Oxide sold as “Green Rouge” for polishing or sharpening, they contain other abrasives of unknown grit or size and will cause a micro-chipped harsh edge.

Once you apply any paste to a substrate it can never be completely removed, so make sure you are buying pure, quality Chrome Oxide. It is really not expensive and a one-time purchase is a life-time supply.

I just got my Mastro Livi loom strop and I feel the major difference on the chromium oxide side is the linen. It is very fine compared to other course material I have used. I also saw his video and found on the loom using the X stroke works very well. As stated extremely light pressure on his strop. Maggard's has chromium oxide paste.

I bought what was described as pure Chromium Oxide from a Pottery supply Co. (They use it as a glaze on ceramic items.) I bought 100gms in powder form for 8 dollars. I use it directly onto a canvas strop, spreading it out with a strainer. I moisten it, next day its good to go. I rang a lapidary company and the atypical grit of ChOx is 60k. I give my razors six laps every second time I use one (I have a dozen or so I use regularly). I do not like crayons, mainly as when the crayon is spent, try getting off the residue. Nigh impossible. With the powder, just stick the strop in a bucket of water and rinse it off, start again. 100grms is enough to make hundreds of strops. I have tried mixing it with oil directly onto balsa wood, didn't like it.
*Chromium Oxide is a rust inhibitor. Iron oxide is 'Rust'.