Thread: Sprung strop - tapered at ends

Hi all,

I'm a newbie to the board but have been shaving daily now with open razors for about a year. Thanks to the materials on this board, perseverance and lots of Alum I'm getting the hang of it!

I'm finally able to use a hanging strop adequately, having decimated a couple along the way. However I recently purchased a Stretch-Riemen paddle to try. This paddle is what I think is termed a "sprung" paddle? The stropping material is stretched over layers of foam, enabling the surface to "spring". See pics. I'm having terrible trouble using this strop, mainly because the surface tapers at both ends - meaning that the actual flat area of the leather is extremely small. The leather is 8" long in total, but with the tapers at each end the flat surface is only about 5" long (and 1.5" wide). This is a very small area and I'm seeking advice from anyone who uses such a paddle with these tapers.... is the intention to use the whole length and somehow curve the spring of the razor to follow across the tapered areas? or is one supposed to just use the flat(ish) area and not extend over the tapered sections?

I'd be most appreciative some advice!

Thanks,

amdyh

i would assume one is supposed to just use the flat part with the foam in it. would be impossible to follow the taper.IMHO

If I had one I'd just be using the flat surface,

Bob

Thanks Tintin and Bob... I think you're right - I've just had another attempt

Welcome to SRP. Has me thinking of a 5" (127mm) hone that many barbers I knew used back in the '80s. Of course they used the X stroke, and the 5" seemed enough for the usually 2&3/4" cutting edge. If you are using an X stroke I think it might be fine.

I would imagine that as you use it, the foam may flatten out as well, increasing your stropping area

I have the same strop as you but an older model so it's set up differently. Mine has the leather bonded to the wood and there is no foam. The plywood has empty layers which gives the spring to the strop and there is no taper.

I guess it's way cheaper to make it your way but not as good from a stropping standpoint.

I would probably avoid the taper when stropping.

Yes, just use the middle, any loss of contact area, from the short stroke, can easily and quickly be made up with a few extra strokes.

It was probably intended as a travel strop. I have a 6-inch dual pasted travel strop, (about the size of a tongue depressor) that the contact area is only about 4 inches, it works very well and fits nicely in a shaving bag.

If you watch folks strop on a hanging strop, 18-20 inches, most only use about 8-10 inches of contact area. It really does not matter much as long as you get enough time on the leather.

Hand stropping is surprisingly effective and you are using 3-4 inches at best.

Only the middle part will be effective, and there are no worries if you go a bit past the end and onto the curved portion of the strop. The edge will just rise off the strop, with no harm to the edge as a result. Of course if you go to the bitter end where the strop goes flat again, your edge will touch back down on the curved portion and you can roll your edge.

I'm not saying anyone would do something like that, but if you did, that would be the result.

Regards

Christian

Like others I have an older version. I X stroke only in the flat area and roll razor before the spine starts to slide down the slope/taper area. I think this the same as lifting spine and overload the edge rolling it/micro chipping. Did this at first as an uninformed beginner. Nicked it too. Har!