Originally Posted by
Euclid440
First you must get the bevel flat.
A bevel set, flattens the bevel from the back of the bevel to the edge, sets it in the correct plane, (bevel angle) and gets the two bevels to meet in a straight edge. All three objectives must be met, to fully set a bevel.
Use pressure on the bevel set. When stropping, you were not applying even pressure and putting more pressure on the spine, (removing stria from the back of the bevel, not the edge). When you torque, use only enough pressure to keep the bevel flat on the strop.
Now you have convexed the bevel, but you never developed a straight edge.
The edge should match the spine, that razor probably had a slight smile with the edge matching the spine. Now it does look like it may have a frown, which could keep the middle of the blade from making full contact with the stone.
Put the edge on a flat surface and see if there is a frown. Also measure the width at the toe, middle and spine. It should measure the same at the three points.
Time to start over. Joint the edge to get a straight edge and remove all the flashing. Then reset the bevel on the 2k. tape the bevel with 2 pieces of tape and Ink the bevel to ensure you are honing to the edge.
Your Chromium Oxide appears to be very aggressive; it is pure Chromium Oxide or a Green polishing stick? Polishing compounds are not pure Chromium Oxide and contain mostly Aluminum Oxide that will cut fast but leave a chippy uncomfortable edge.
Remember the actual edge is super thin, thinner that you can see with USB magnification, to see the actual edge, you need a SEM. So, if you add pressure to a developed edge, you will break it off and have a ragged edge, defeating all your work to that point.
Are you using pure Chromium Oxide on a clean strop? Is your leather pasted?