Thread: Linen, or Canvas or Horsehide, OH MY!

I worked on a blade a couple nights in a row to take out a nick, set bevel, and hone to keen. Had it just right. . . and in a moment of insanity picked up a dremel with a wire brush to 'touch up' the spine. Got a little careless and touched the brush to the edge.

Magnification showed a jagged, wiry area along a shallow divot. I decided to try the linen on it. I looked at it again after 40 passes. The jags and wires were diminished to a surprising degree. I observed a difference before to after.

I test shaved it the following day and it was more than passable smooth.

I think I go to the linen when others go to paste, just because I prefer it.

Up above someone said 'leather is leather' or some such. I think I would say cowhide is cowhide. But, there are many different finishes of cow leather that produce extreme differences in the way a razor draws across it.

Horsehide was historically popular because it was considered tougher than cowhide. One example: Major League Baseball changed from horsehide baseballs to cowhide in 1974. Before '74, when the catcher allowed a ball to hit the dirt around the plate, the umpire would inspect it for scuffing. . . about half the time he'd put it back in play. Since cowhide balls (baseballs) came in, the ump throws them out after any contact with the ground.

Buffalo hide had wide industrial application in the 19th century. It supplied the drive belts that turned the wheels of the US industrial revolution. Because. . . it was stronger than anything else available . . . and, coincidentally, killing buffalo served US political ambitions of that era.

In this world, I use straights and all the related paraphernalia because I get a sense of stepping away from the confusing and confused aspects of 21st century life. My gear includes horsehide and linen because it works for me and my razors.

Of course, YMMV

Would any of the cedars make a good paddle frame, I can see it meeting the requirements for lightness and stability. Alaskan white cedar is clean reasonably light and dimensionally stable. Quarter cut would be best for any wood though. There are many woods that could meet the requirements for a good paddle. Why can the paddle not have a stretched loom type leather instead of the glued down type? Well I suppose it's production costs to sales return that prohibits this

waffle over

PuFF

Originally Posted by PuFFaH

Would any of the cedars make a good paddle frame, I can see it meeting the requirements for lightness and stability. Alaskan white cedar is clean reasonably light and dimensionally stable. Quarter cut would be best for any wood though. There are many woods that could meet the requirements for a good paddle. Why can the paddle not have a stretched loom type leather instead of the glued down type? Well I suppose it's production costs to sales return that prohibits this

waffle over

PuFF

Puff,
Quarter sawn would make nearly any wood more stable but getting wood milled that way is big $$ because of the waste factor. I like the idea of the loom type design but then the fancy milling of the wood pushes cost up too. Once the box strops are finished I may take a wooden loom type sample up to my Amish friend and see what he can do on it. He has a very well equiped shop, far better than mine for woodworking and is very talented. Almost all of his shop tools have been converted to air motors running off of a gas powered air compressor as the Amish do not use electricity.

Tony

Linen rocks (i need a head banging metal smilie)

What I find interesting is that both waxed and unwaxed linens work well. Still not sure about the difference to be able to discuss it intelligently...

Anyway - on the paddle discussion: it seems that Germans and European users are very fond of them and actually recommend them over hanging strops. I myself think this is BS. I do use both, but prefer the hanging strops by far.

Cheers
Ivo

Originally Posted by Tony Miller

Puff,
Quarter sawn would make nearly any wood more stable but getting wood milled that way is big $$ because of the waste factor. I like the idea of the loom type design but then the fancy milling of the wood pushes cost up too. Once the box strops are finished I may take a wooden loom type sample up to my Amish friend and see what he can do on it. He has a very well equiped shop, far better than mine for woodworking and is very talented. Almost all of his shop tools have been converted to air motors running off of a gas powered air compressor as the Amish do not use electricity.

Tony

Yeh Tony, Quarter cut does cost a bit more, no argument there. Some kind of cam system to tension the leather could be adopted I suppose but in your case Tony I can see the need to keep production costs as low as possible so you don't price yourself out of the market.
If you dont mind, I will mull over the problem and pm you with my design some time soon. I will not take offense if you tell me to F***** O**

PuFF

Puff,
I am always open to ideas and my friends is quite creative in woodworking. For me it is not only a $$ cost, but a time cost too as there are only so many hours in a day. Sending some of my woodwork to him will make other, new projects feasible now.

Let me know what you have in mind.

Tony