Results 21 to 30 of 30
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08-16-2008, 11:34 PM #21
I think coating it with some tung oil or other surface treatment is a great idea. If that is Wolmanized, they use arsenic to make it undesireable to critters and mold/mildew.
If you have ever got a splinter from that stuff, you will know how bad it can be.
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08-26-2008, 01:12 PM #22
Great idea!
I will link your thread for all my future shaving pals in my thread in the Classified section..
THANKS!
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08-31-2008, 05:12 PM #23
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Michigan
- Posts
- 86
Thanked: 1This inspired me to chop up the bass wood we had down stairs. I took it over to a buddy's house and had him cut it about 1/2 inch thick.
He put it both on the joiner to be sure his cuts were straight, and put it through the planer on each side.
It's smooth, but my block of CrO doesn't go on smooth. Should I let use smooth it out or sand it down?
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09-02-2008, 03:06 PM #24
good post
now I have more stuff to think about. Thanks for the post
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09-19-2008, 02:15 PM #25
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Salt Lake City
- Posts
- 263
Thanked: 31
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09-19-2008, 02:39 PM #26
Mine is 2" or 2 1/2, I forget right now. It's definitely wide enough to use but isn't 3+ inches to cover the whole width of the blade. 1 1/2 inches would work but would be tougher to keep it even etc so I'd stick with 2 inches and up if you can find it.
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The Following User Says Thank You to backpackerx For This Useful Post:
maplemaker (09-19-2008)
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09-19-2008, 03:39 PM #27
Very innovative! Good job!!!
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01-10-2009, 07:20 AM #28
I just found a couple of balsa-pieces at home and can't wait to make a strop like that!
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01-10-2009, 07:36 AM #29
I believe you can use the raw balsa surface as a carrier for the paste and strop directly on that, no leather needed. That's if it's not treated. Even if it is treated it's an awesome start, finish it and there should be no trouble.
X
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01-10-2009, 07:40 AM #30
I am using the balsa as a carrier, just need to glue it to something to reinforce it. And I need to get some paste.