Thread: Question about creating balsa bench strop.

I am going to create 2 bench strops using balsa wood cut 3" wide glued to ceramic tile to use with pastes.

so, my questions.

1) Does this sound like an o.k. setup? Balsa with a ceramic tile backer?

2) Is there any set length i should try to use? I was thinking 3" wide so the entire blade touches without needing to use X pattern. But i was not sure about length

3) What kind of sandpaper should i use to flatten the balsa once it is glued down? Is the process similiar to stone? Draw grid, soak sandpaper and stick to glass/mirror/ceramic whatever and rub till marks are gone?


Thanks!

/quick edit... Instead of making 2 seperate, could i glue a piece to each side of the tile?

That's how I do my poplar strops. I use the Rhino glue which expands as it cures, to make sure there's a really solid bond.

3" wide is fine. You'll want at least 8"-12" in length or you'll get frustrated.

I used 300 grit for my poplar. Sand dry - wood expands when wet, and when it dries it may not dry flat. You'll be using it dry, so sand it dry. Just grid it with a pencil and sand away.

You can do 2-sided strops like this, though I stick to single-sided myself so the tile is contacting the table instead of pasted balsa - this makes a mess on your wife's table and gets contaminants on your strop.

Originally Posted by mparker762

That's how I do my poplar strops. I use the Rhino glue which expands as it cures, to make sure there's a really solid bond.

3" wide is fine. You'll want at least 8"-12" in length or you'll get frustrated.

I used 300 grit for my poplar. Sand dry - wood expands when wet, and when it dries it may not dry flat. You'll be using it dry, so sand it dry. Just grid it with a pencil and sand away.

You can do 2-sided strops like this, though I stick to single-sided myself so the tile is contacting the table instead of pasted balsa - this makes a mess on your wife's table and gets contaminants on your strop.

Thanks for the advice. would you recommend polar over balsa?

Not necessarily. I used it because I had it lying around, and I think it may work a bit better because it's a harder wood so there's less surface flex, but I've got no particular love for poplar itself. I suspect lemonwood would work really really well because of the lack of grain, but it's not readily available anymore.

O.k. Thanks. So once i glue the balsa should i let it set over night before i go any further in the process?

After talking to you i think i'm going to create 2 seperate 3"x12" balsa on top of ceramic tile.

Think i will also glue rubber feet or maybe the non-slide drawer liner stuff to the bottom.

Once i get all the stuff i'll document it with pictures and if it comes out o.k. post my "how to"

I think your idea will work fine with the tile. The sanding can be done with 150 grit on up. I used 180 because that's what was on my belt sander. If you don't have a belt sander a decent sized sanding block should be good enough to get it flat. I used contact cement to glue my balsa.

bj

Originally Posted by 2Sharp

I think your idea will work fine with the tile. The sanding can be done with 150 grit on up. I used 180 because that's what was on my belt sander. If you don't have a belt sander a decent sized sanding block should be good enough to get it flat. I used contact cement to glue my balsa.

bj

do i put the sandpaper down on a flat surface and then rub the balsa on it until the marks are gone. or use a sanding block on the balsa once it is glued down?

Originally Posted by Slartibartfast

do i put the sandpaper down on a flat surface and then rub the balsa on it until the marks are gone. or use a sanding block on the balsa once it is glued down?

Glue it down and let it dry first, then sand it later. I sanded mine using 300 grit on a 18x18" sheet of faux marble tile from Home Depot (~$2). Lay the sandpaper on the counter or tile or whatever, then flip the hone balsa-side down and sand in an X or 8 pattern until it's flat. Then wipe the surface of the wood down with a damp cloth to get rid of any grit and pulp. It's good to leave a little tooth on the surface of the wood to help it grab on to the paste.

I recently had a go at making my own balsa wood strop. I glued a plank of balsa wood to a base made out of a couple of sheets of MDF.
Also, with all this talk of sanding the balsa wood, is sanding necessary if the balsa is already flat. Or are they required to be super smooth?

I would guess just put the sandpaper on a flat surface [Kitchen counter when the old lady ain't looking]. Any flat surface would do. It doesn't have to be perfect because the balsa gives a little to match the surface of the edge of your blade and the paste or liquid fills in the small valleys and imperfections and soaks into the surface of the wood. That's why I like balsa over a harder wood.

bj