Thread: Strop leather

So I've seen that a lot of good strops come from latigo leather, or roo leather, and I just read a post about deer hide...but what about other types of leather? Such as lamb, goat, bison, etc. I was perusing the bay for leather hides and saw a bunch of different types, and it just got me wondering. (I even saw a stingray skin on there!) By the way I am a complete newb and know next to nothing about leather and the qualities that make a good strop, just curious though.

Among the thinner ones goat would be the one with the highest density and the firmest texture.
So you could get away with not having to glue layers.
Depends a bit on the purpose it was finished for.
There's shoe goat and there is clothes goat.
The shoe goat is better for strops cause its thicker.

Lamb is too thin and it stretches endlessly.

Generally the line along the back is the best part for strop purposes.

I only know about the strops I have actually used. I see a lot of guys like latigo and a lot of draw. I prefer horsehide with very little draw but I use both in each stropping session with 30 and 30 first on the latigo and then on the horse.

There is a forum member who makes strops out of kangaroo leather. I don't know about any of the other exotic leathers. I have seen a vintage strop on the bay purportedly made out of elephant. That ought to be some tough hide.

The traditional leather have always been cowhide (bovine) or horsehide (equine) in some variation....steerhide, bull hide, calf hide, etc..... to add a bit of marketing flair so you have something a bit different. These two basic leathers can be found tanned and finished a bit differently to give a different feel from smooth, to rough, firm or soft, etc.....

All will do the job and each maker and buyer has their own favorites. "Back in the day" all manner of skins were tried to give a unique products, pig skin, seal skin, etc..... I'm sure they worked just as well too and many guys are experimenting with various different leathers today like kangaroo, buffalo, etc....

Basically thicker is better than thin as it is easier to get it to lay and stay flat. Too thin it feels floppy, too thick it feels stiff. Some hide are inherently more stiff, or more soft than others regardless of thickness. Some leathers ar "jacked" or rolled under pressue to create a firm temper.

You also want a smooth surface, not bumpy, not showing fat wrinkles (looks like cellulite), or raises scars. The texture can be very smooth, or with a nap like suede.

Some of the guys here have had good luck with wide "belt blanks" from Tandy or similar suppliers. I'd go that route instead of buying an exotic leather site unseen because you don't know what it will feel like.

Tony

I have two of the old time pig skin strops and they are a gas. I have found that there seems to be a major difference in the newer horsehide strops. They seem thicker and have less draw than the old Shell strops. The older ones really seem to have a ton of draw when they are broke in. The new ones when broken in do have a draw, but it is silkier. Maybe it's just that we have gone to thicker cuts of leather and I'm not sure if the tanning is being done the same way. The Buffalo is another hide that seems to have an inherent amount of draw in it.

Strops like so many other things seem to be a science of their own and it is as much fun as hones and razors getting to experiment and try them........well, almost

Lynn

Lynn,
I'm sure you have found with your experimenting each of the leathers has its own unique traits and each seems to have it's good and bad points. I have always enjoyed trying different ones and seeing what works, what does not and what just seems the same.

I think years ago the large makers had everything tanned to their own specs and had better control over exactly how the leather feels, horsehide being a good example. Today, for the most part we are at the mercy of the market. Tanneries make what they do based on the larger market, we as the "little guys" can only choose from what is out there, selecting the best, rejecting the bad.

Availability of quality hides is a big factor. There are some really nice leathers out there but can one consistantly get them in quantity enough to make a product. I've had a few types over the years thet the tannery just stopped making and I wished I could still offer.

It looks like you have found some interesting materials as well and trying some fun combinations.

Tony

I've got some vintage strops and they are a lot of fun. I have a pair of C-Mons that are both great but both very different. I am at work (it's slow) so I can't recall what the strops are named. One is "broke in" and they are both shell (horsehide). One is thin and supple and feels kind of luxurious when you're stropping. The other is thick and reminds me of stropping on balsa. Not stiff because of age, the leather is still really nice with no cracks. My favorite vintage strop is a Koken horsehide. It is thin too but it works really well.

At one time I had intended having a collection of every kind of critter used for stropmaking in vintage strops. I think I had about 15 different strops from all kinds of animals and in the end though they had slight differences they pretty much worked the same and did the job. Stay away from stingray though the leather is very stiff and coarse like sandpaper.

Originally Posted by thebigspendur

Stay away from stingray though the leather is very stiff and coarse like sandpaper.

I know exactly what you mean. It almost makes me wonder if it could be finished in such a way that it could be used for refreshing like a linen strop, or perhaps as a pasted strop

Originally Posted by Tony Miller

The texture can be very smooth, or with a nap like suede.



Tony

So stropping on reverse side is ok if it is like suede? (I've got an old belt that meets this description - soft, smooth and suedey on reverse side).

If you can - would you just strop on this surface or just before stropping on the regular side? (if that makes sense)

Thanks,
Michael.