Thread: Cordovan vs. Shell vs. Horsehide?

So I'm pretty sure that all Shell is horsehide, but not all horsehide is shell? Right? Shell is the specific part on the buttocks that is thicker right?

And then what is the difference between either shell or horsehide and Cordovan? Or is Cordovan just the official word for shell? And are old strops Cordovan or is Cordovan a new/very special thing?

I was wondering the same thing.

I have had some shell horesehide, and that stuff seems to be the super-glossy zero draw stuff. Then I've recently aquired a couple of vintage "regular" horsehide that has a bit more draw, and latigo-ish qualities, if I may phrase it like that.

Any experts out there want to chime in?

I know shell is horsehide, I'm wondering if ALL horsehide is shell, or if shell is a specific horsehide.

Also, if cordovan is a tanning process- are vintage shell strops Cordovan?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_cordovan
Wiki in this case is not so useful- it seems that Shell=Cordovan? but the article clears up that shell is a special kind of horsehide.

http://horween.com/index.php/leathers/
The info here confirms that not all horsehide is shell (only the butt- they have a diagram) and that cordovan is a very specific tanning process. (Horween is one of two cordovan tanneries in the world).

So does anyone know if old Shell strops are cordovan or not?

I know that Florshiem and Alden shoe mfgs make shoes referred to as 'shell cordonvan'.

Yeah I found that which is how I found the Horween company- that's where the shoe people get their stuff. Horween is in Chicago Illinois. How many strops have we seen Chicago stamped on? a lot. I'm just curious if any/many/all vintage shells are cordovan.

From what I understand, "shell" is no longer really horsehide at all, it is actually leather made from the thin layer of fine muscle under the skin at the butt of the horse. The skin is all shaved away from the muscle layer, leaving a smooth leather with no grain at all.

Hide, of course, is made from the skin.

Cordovan is apparently a leather made from the shell through a particular tanning process. I know that it's particularly difficult to make, resulting in the price.

This information comes though Tony Miller's posts on this forum and through my discussions with Naomi-san. Most of the reason for the high price of the Kanayama strops is the leather--he gets expensive cordovan leather, then buffs, treats and oils it until it is super soft and smooth...meaning even more man hours.