Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Senior Member blabbermouth rtaylor61's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Salt Lake City, Utah
    Posts
    2,376
    Thanked: 2

    Default Gettin' "Pasted"

    Another in a long line of newbie ???'s.

    I've got Tony's 4 sided paddle strop and one of his #2 hanging strops (well, they aren't Tony's anymore, I paid him!). I like the way the 4 sided paddle is laid out with two somewhat rough surfaces, and two smooth surfaces (Tony, chime in if you want to properly explain what they are). Based on what I am reading and learning here, I feel that I also need a/some pasted strops. My thinking is to pick up a couple of Tony's "second" strops for using the pastes. A good way to go, or should I look on ebay for used strops?

    RT

  2. #2
    Super Shaver xman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Lotus Land, eh
    Posts
    8,194
    Thanked: 622

    Default Just Add Paste

    You're all set up now. Surely you don't need two identical sides unpasted. Paste as many sides of that strop as you need. That's what it's made for. Tony explained this on another thread, but I can't find it now. I think he does three sides with 1, 0.5 & 0.25 micron pastes and leaves side one free of paste for the final strop?

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    SW Florida
    Posts
    32
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    RT,
    You should do a search for pasted strops, or paste. I know that this has been covered before somewhere. I think that the rougher sides of the paddle strop could be used for pastes. Why buy more if what you have will suffice for now? Maybe Tony will bring it to light.

    Tim

    P.S. What he said

  4. #4
    Senior Member Tony Miller's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Nottingham, Maryland
    Posts
    2,559
    Thanked: 382

    Default

    Randy,
    The rough sides were designed for the more coarse pastes, 3.0 or 1.0 maybe. The tan smooth side is good for a 0.5 or 0.25 and the red latigo leather is for finishing.
    I do feel hard paddle type strops are the way to go for pastes. Whether they be leather glues to wood, balsa or even MDF board covered with pastes you need the unyielding surface. I know they used pastes on hanging strops in the past but one needs to be very careful of rounding the edge because the strop is deflecting when stropping. Only the lightest touch would work I think and even they I worry about a rounded edge.
    While I do make a natural untreated strop, my #3, I still would not suggest pasting it. You already have the tool for the job in my opinion. I made my untreated strops for the guys who already use pastes on hanging strops and have the feel for it or those who prefer a different finish. These can be treated with regular strop dressing, mink oil, Neat's Foot Oil, etc.... for a different feel and that is where they are best used.
    My "seconds" are just ones that have some small cosmetic dings or small scratches that I would not sell as first rate. Just as usable but not what I want my logo on.
    Thanks,
    Tony
    The Heirloom Razor Strop Company / The Well Shaved Gentleman

    https://heirloomrazorstrop.com/

  5. #5
    MOD and Giveaway Dude str8razor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Bartlesville, Oklahoma
    Posts
    1,504
    Thanked: 801

    Default Silicone

    For what it is worth........There is a paste out there labeled "Mink Oil" that has SILICONE in it. Do not buy anything that has silicone in it. The silicone will coat the leather and keep the polishing paste from working into the leather preventing it from doing its job.

    Bill Watkins

  6. #6
    Senior Member Joe Lerch's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,331
    Thanked: 8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rtaylor61
    Another in a long line of newbie ???'s.

    I've got Tony's 4 sided paddle strop and one of his #2 hanging strops (well, they aren't Tony's anymore, I paid him!). I like the way the 4 sided paddle is laid out with two somewhat rough surfaces, and two smooth surfaces (Tony, chime in if you want to properly explain what they are). Based on what I am reading and learning here, I feel that I also need a/some pasted strops. My thinking is to pick up a couple of Tony's "second" strops for using the pastes. A good way to go, or should I look on ebay for used strops?

    RT
    You seem to be all set. The hanging strop is your leather and the paddle your paste. With 4 choices, I would go 3, 1, .5, and .25. The grit equivalents are 8K, 14K, 50K and 100K. This should allow you to maintain any edge and make it super sharp. If you ever need to re-form an edge, you'll need a coarser grit, like a 3-4K (a stone would be best). If you plan on restoring razors, you could have a need for something coarser that will let form a new edge quickly. But on the rare occasions you need that you can use 1K grit sandpaper. There are some good ceramic stones available in the 3-4K grit range. I think a Spyderco fine may be there.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Joe Lerch's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,331
    Thanked: 8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Miller
    Randy,
    The rough sides were designed for the more coarse pastes, 3.0 or 1.0 maybe. The tan smooth side is good for a 0.5 or 0.25 and the red latigo leather is for finishing.
    I see. I thought he had 4 unfinished sides, like mine. In that case I would go 3, 1, .5. Those would be the most useful. If you ever develope a need for .25 paste you can always get another unfinished strop or a piece of leather.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •