Thread: Stropping Observation

Just thought I would share some stropping experiment/observations I did today.

I decided to do some stropping experiments to evaluate some theories I have developed on strop deflection, slack, etc. I wanted to evaluate if there was anything I could do to organize or structure strop deflection, or sag in order to improve edges. This is experimentation I have done many times. The difference this time was that I was going to evaluate razor edges, four of them, with the Thumb Pad Test and shaving. I have concluded that I can accept a good shave, but I can't evaluate an edge simply by shaving. I can only evaluate strop performance with a TPT.

In my experiment I would conduct a type of stropping, then I would evalute the razors, then I would rehone them to the same point, then try another method. I kept loose notes on the best stropping method. Again, though I am searching for marked improvement in the edge, not correction of a damaged edge. It would be unacceptable for the edge to simply keep shaving well.

I started with significant sag in the strop (about an inch of drop) and could not improve any of the edges with stropping. I was surprised to discover that I could not damage the edges so that they would not shave either. They simply did not improve at all. The real meat of my theory was that the edge could be shaped and then stropped flat and improved, but this seemed unproven as well.

Next I moved to deflection, up to a 1/4 inch, and I tried slight deflection too. Both failed to improve the edges as well. Although the razors all shaved well, again, I was evaluating strop improvement through direct TPT evaluation.

I finally began using a taut flat strop and worked the edges again. This time I was a little surprised that, again, I was not able to evaluate any improvement off the strop. It shaved well, but failed to improve. I was looking for radical improvement, either using pressure or using a light touch.

Finally, I think I succeeded. I applied dry bar soap to the strop. I used a touch of pressure to build the most draw possible on the strop. Then I rode the razor out for about 30 passes, working it against the draw. The razors really seemed to protest being stropped like this. Strop held taut. All the edges improved noticebly on the TPT test. They all became noticebly sticky. I test shaved with the razors and they all shaved very, very well too.

I think I have found a stropping method to settle in on for a while. Although I am BBS now from WTG only passes, the experiments took about 10 passes altogether.

A long time ago ... it seems like .... you posted on a way of holding the strop for maximum tautness. Then not so long ago about stropping with a progressively lighter touch as you completed the stropping. I have been following those procedures and they seem to be working well. I haven't tested them beyond my normal shaving though. I'm glad there are members who are curious and keep on pushing the envelope so to speak.

You misspelled strap

several times



Out of curiosity why did dry bar soap enter your mind? Did you try any other materials that did not work out so well?

Thanks for sharing your findings Alan. I wonder if I have ever held my strop so tightly as to only get a quarter inch of deflection while stropping. Curious...

I'm not sure. I read about bar soap a long time ago. I think at some point I realized that I just needed more friction! I've tried a lot of things, even soap before. This time I think it was the combination of hard soap added to the strop and a willingness to use a little pressure and really work the edge.

Did you get a whole lot of build up on the spine of the razor? I did. My strop is red latigo and it looked like blood when I washed it off.

No, but my strop has been around for years. If it gets wet though it can do that. Might just need to dry a bit.

Good to know. It might be something to do with the dye too I suppose.

I change the deflection of my strop to accomodate each individual razor that I hone, depending on the grind,i.e., full hollow would be relatively tight, 1/4 hollow would be a slight deflection - and so on to the wedge which would be the most deflection. - but, each razor and it's physical characteristics will guide me in regard to how much deflection it needs. This has to do with feel and sound.

* Good work, Alan

Steve

Oh, that is interesting. I've read that hanging strops were invented to handle the new fangled full hollow razors. Those are the only kind I own. So I guess I'm surprised that the wedge takes more deflection and the full the least. Neat.

It's true. I can definitely be a lot less tight with the strop when I stop my 1/4 hollows.