Thread: Strops better than hones, TOP 10

Originally Posted by tcrideshd

Doublewood, if your into paste, maybe a long time. From watching Euclids440 post he gets a lot of mileage from high grit nano thingys, but this much I do know, if you keep the blade sharp instead of letting it degrade, you can go a long time without even seeing the bevel setter. Either a maintainence routine(paste or finish hone) like nod, every 10 or so shaves I do 4-5 laps on a 12k naniwa just to keep it at that level,, I,m sure there are better guys than me that can explain it, but maintain instead of having to refresh. Tc

Randydance said to me " if you set the bevel right you should never have to do it again." I heard Utopian say "Like a foundation". Some time later in the day Randydance told me that a shaveready razor is just that and has no need to be stropped. Now I could be wrong or mis heard. But I have lived by those words for 2 years now. I hone to that place. When a razor doesnt I drop back one or two hones and build it back. I have a lonely strop.

TC explained it best. Maintenance before you tear the house down.

Good idea, would make a good post to get information in one place, there is a lot of good information here on SRP.

I have never use the Fromm dressing, but really most dressing contain similar oils that will work.

I use a combination of sources, the first was posted by Mike, (Wolfpack34) or Neil Miller, probably both I think, from an old barbers manual, and a post from Kevin, (Hides to Art) in an old Razor & Stone post (Leather 101 here,) make sure to go Page 6 for all the information and answers to questions. I could not find the original post from Mike & Neil.

Kevin does not recommend specific oil, just a good oil/conditioner or the recommendation of your local saddle maker. The trick is to go slowly, it took years, many years to wick the moisture from the leather, it will take time to get it deep back into the leather.

Use a small amount of oil on damp leather, water will swell the fibers and allow the oil to get deep into the leather. I like Ballistol or plain old Neat’s-foot oil, in a fine spray mister. Mist a lite coat on a damp strop (wiped with a warm water damp sponge) and wait for it to absorb (2-3 fine spritz) then work gently into the leather, then hang and wait a few days. Keep adding and working the leather until you get the result you want. On a very dry strop I will work both sides, then work the face side sparingly in subsequent applications.

For an old dried out leather strop, it can easily take months, adding very small amounts at a time, less than a ¼ teaspoon of oil or dressing at a time. Once you get moisture in the leather, then and only then start to work the leather with a roller. I use a rolling pin with a plastic roller, gently push the oil deep into the leather and flex the leather a little at a time. All this takes place after a good cleaning or better multiple cleanings with saddle soap.

Kevin recommends adding moisture, plain water to your strop often, so I wipe my strops with a damp microfiber on both sides to clean and add moisture.

I also started thinking about a strop progression years ago, after a conversation about this with Wolfpack34 who also has a vintage collection that he uses.

The trick, if there is one, is to go slow, and work the leather damp, ok 2 tricks. Dampen, let it absorb 15-20 minutes then add the oil.

I do have some photos of some strop in the process, I will try to put together a photo tutorial.