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  1. #1
    'tis but a scratch! roughkype's Avatar
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    Default Taming a harsh blade

    I have a full-hollow blade that passes HHT very nicely but shaves harsher than my others. Is it possible (or advisable) to smooth it by stropping on a slightly slack strop?

    My strop is undressed leather and canvas and I want to keep it to one strop in the bathroom so my wife won't understand how bad this shaving problem is becoming.
    "These aren't the droids you're looking for." "These aren't the droids we're looking for." "He can go about his business." "You can go about your business."

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    There are really so many variables that can cause a harsh blade..
    First HHT means nothing, in this case in fact it is a good reason why it doesn't show shave readiness, only sharpness...

    Tell us a bit more and perhaps we can help ...

    But YES in general stropping gymnastics can smooth up an edge but why don't you give us the whole story first

    like Razor, stones, system, laps,, etc: etc:

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    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    I've had good results in smoothing out a harsh blade with chrom-ox on a felt or a leather flat bed. If you have something like that give it a whirl.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth nessmuck's Avatar
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    Another trick is to strop the blade on some colored newspaper 100 laps. About 4/5 pages thick ,taped to a flat surface.

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    roughkype (11-21-2010)

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    'tis but a scratch! roughkype's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    There are really so many variables that can cause a harsh blade..
    First HHT means nothing, in this case in fact it is a good reason why it doesn't show shave readiness, only sharpness...

    Tell us a bit more and perhaps we can help ...

    But YES in general stropping gymnastics can smooth up an edge but why don't you give us the whole story first

    like Razor, stones, system, laps,, etc: etc:
    The razor is a 5/8 full-hollow Carbo-Magnetic I got last week at an antique store. The edge was in good shape, so I started honing with the coarse side of my Frictionite00. I did a pyramid with it--25 coarse, 25 fine, 20C/20F, 15C/15F, 10C/10F, 5C/7F, 3C/5F, 1C/5F. To be honest, I don't know if that's appropriate on a barber's hone, but I'm still learning. These laps were all dry, though I rinsed the blade when going from the coarse side to the fine side.

    I followed the Frictionite with 60 laps on a Spyderco UF, then 30 on untreated canvas strop and 60 on untreated leather.

    I've got a coticule, too, but didn't pull it out for this blade. My smoother shavers *probably* got their most recent hones on it, but I would have finished them on the Spyderco too.

    That's the whole story, as well as I remember it!
    "These aren't the droids you're looking for." "These aren't the droids we're looking for." "He can go about his business." "You can go about your business."

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    The only thing that comes to mind right off the top of my head, that doesn't cost anything but time is one drop of Dish soap with the hones wet... That should add just enough slickness to smooth things up for you..
    The Coticule is the other option for a smooth edge...

    Hope that helps some...

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    roughkype (11-21-2010)

  10. #7
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    Assuming the blade is sharp either chrome ox or a coticule would be a fine choice to tame a harsh blade. But the problem could also be that it wasn't sharp enough to begin with, in which case you'll have to drop down to coaser hones to resume the sharpening process.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Kees's Avatar
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    +! for chorm. ox. Barber hones are usually estimated at 6-8K, maybe you want a finer hone.
    Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.

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    Modine MODINE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by roughkype View Post
    The razor is a 5/8 full-hollow Carbo-Magnetic I got last week at an antique store. The edge was in good shape, so I started honing with the coarse side of my Frictionite00. I did a pyramid with it--25 coarse, 25 fine, 20C/20F, 15C/15F, 10C/10F, 5C/7F, 3C/5F, 1C/5F. To be honest, I don't know if that's appropriate on a barber's hone, but I'm still learning. These laps were all dry, though I rinsed the blade when going from the coarse side to the fine side.

    I followed the Frictionite with 60 laps on a Spyderco UF, then 30 on untreated canvas strop and 60 on untreated leather.

    I've got a coticule, too, but didn't pull it out for this blade. My smoother shavers *probably* got their most recent hones on it, but I would have finished them on the Spyderco too.

    That's the whole story, as well as I remember it!

    roughkype;
    Like Ryan said providing you had a shave ready edge to begin with, I have a Spyderco UF. I don't use anymore. I have a Frictionite 00. I don't want to cause an up roar but I think you got it bass ackward. Spyderco before Frictionite. Frictionite is a very fine barber hone, one of the best.

    The tan side is the final finish side. No more than 12 laps on the tan side w/ soapy water solution to bring and edge back to shave ready. Maybe you over honed the edge. Under magnification portions of the edge will look like thin foil bent over... Just my 2 cents.

    I was told the Frictionite was a Rhodesian mineral no longer available made by American Hone Co in either Olean NY or Mondrovia IA. Hang on to the Frictionite roughkype.
    MIke

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    If it were mine I would give it 20 laps under water with the coticle.

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