Thread: Advice on SRD modular paddle strop

Is anyone else finding that the geometry of the Paddle Strop requires more laps and more pressure than used on hanging strops? When I originally started using the SRD Paddle Strop, I was avoiding any pressure. I found little to no result from that. As I have started to apply pressure, still with good technique, I am starting to see better finishing of the blade. Has anyone esle seen this?

Originally Posted by ace

Is anyone else finding that the geometry of the Paddle Strop requires more laps and more pressure than used on hanging strops? When I originally started using the SRD Paddle Strop, I was avoiding any pressure. I found little to no result from that. As I have started to apply pressure, still with good technique, I am starting to see better finishing of the blade. Has anyone esle seen this?

I have an SRD hanging felt strop that is extra long. This strop might take a pass or two less than the Modular paddle due to the length of the stropping area. I think that a standard length hanging felt and the Modular about equal in terms of the number of strokes required.

You are probably asking for trouble using pressure on the felt. Its pretty easy to go too far and actually reduce the sharpness of the blade. If you are finding that you are getting a better result with pressure you probably aren't sharp enough before going to the felt. The sprayed material, whether it's felt, balsa or whatever is really intended to refine an edge that is "almost there". I would (and do) go with Lynn's method of +/- 10 passes with no pressure. If you aren't getting a good result I would look upstream in the honing process.

I get your point, but I am referring specifically to the difference in effect between a flat strop and a hanging one, even tightly held. There is a bit of give to the hanging strop, especially with the weight of the arm. My experience with the Modular Paddle has been that applying no pressure does nothing, The blade just glides along on the leather and benefits little from it. When I started pressing the blade mildly into the leather, the results improved. Perhaps I should look upstream as you say, but after 12K my edge was passing all the relevant tests, but didn't benefit from light stropping.

Sorry, I guess I assumed we were talking about pasted/sprayed materials, but upon re-reading your post I see that I jumped to an incorrect conclusion. I wish that was the only time I had done that...

Now, to get back on point....I see what you are saying regarding the leather. Have you tried a variety of razors to see if your results are the same? I have used the Modular paddle as well as a TI travel paddle(which is quite small) and gotten acceptable results, although I prefer a hanging strop for routine stropping. I believe that the cut out areas that go horizontally through the body of the paddle are intended to provide a little give in the stropping surface, not unlike the deflection in a hanging strop.

I haven't done that many razors on the paddle at all, but when I first started using it, I was just starting stropping and was paying strict attention to the no pressure/light pressure advice given newbies. I read the warnings about nicked up strops, rolled edges and all of that and just lightly skated the razors across the flat leather pad with no pressure to strop them. Now I'm thinking that some pressure is necessary because no friction would otherwise be generated by the leather on the razor, and thus no effect. If the slots in the paddle to allow it to give, that would seem to me to support my idea of using more pressure on the paddle because of its flatness. I certainly haven't pressed hard enough yet to see any give, but might see what it takes later today. I guess if I hear the wood snap I will have pressed too hard, eh?

Originally Posted by ace

I haven't done that many razors on the paddle at all, but when I first started using it, I was just starting stropping and was paying strict attention to the no pressure/light pressure advice given newbies. I read the warnings about nicked up strops, rolled edges and all of that and just lightly skated the razors across the flat leather pad with no pressure to strop them. Now I'm thinking that some pressure is necessary because no friction would otherwise be generated by the leather on the razor, and thus no effect. If the slots in the paddle to allow it to give, that would seem to me to support my idea of using more pressure on the paddle because of its flatness. I certainly haven't pressed hard enough yet to see any give, but might see what it takes later today. I guess if I hear the wood snap I will have pressed to hard, eh?

To each their own. I still find that minimal pressure works fine either with a hanging strop or paddle. Typically, if I have any question on this I will consult the microscope and shave with the razor. Are you shaving with razors you are honing yet??

Yes, most certainly. My face is paying the price for sins I commit on the stones. In fact, my shave this morning was 50% better after using additional pressure and more passes on the SRD Modular Paddle, all other parts of my honing progression unchanged. I may have reached the point of diminishing returns, but will continue the experiment tonight. Thank you for your comment.

Anybody who have modular strop with pads probably can answer on my question: is it possible to cut pads with sharp knife or scalpel together with backing magnet (is the backing magnet hard one or flexible one that is possible to cut with sharp knife or scissors at least).

It is flexible and you should be able to cut it with scissors/shears, knife, etc.