Thread: Stropping Technique - Advice Sought

Is that your main/only strop? I'm only asking because it looked like a beauty and barber 3" ?

I really don't like being the bearer of bad news but If that is a beauty and barber and your using it as you main strop it may cause some problems by it self..

They are a very hard and not a very good strop. You could damage your razor by using one of those.... (not saying you will)

Before joining SRP i purchased one not knowing the quality and it went in the bin the day i received it, but not before i cut it in half to see if it was actually leather or reconstituted leather.. I'm 95% sure they are reconstituted leather not a solid piece of leather. Its either that or they condition them with cement..


B&B LEATHER STROP 3"

Originally Posted by Brighty83

Is that your main/only strop? I'm only asking because it looked like a beauty and barber 3" ?

I really don't like being the bearer of bad news but If that is a beauty and barber and your using it as you main strop it may cause some problems by it self..

They are a very hard and not a very good strop. You could damage your razor by using one of those.... (not saying you will)

Before joining SRP i purchased one not knowing the quality and it went in the bin the day i received it, but not before i cut it in half to see if it was actually leather or reconstituted leather.. I'm 95% sure they are reconstituted leather not a solid piece of leather. Its either that or they condition them with cement..


B&B LEATHER STROP 3"

I wish I knew more about this strop.

I think the OP has a Illinois Razor strop
and will be fine. He can correct me ....

A stiff new strop should be used like a balsa strop. Pull it tight light
and deliberate smooth strop strokes. Those of us with a DMT to
lap our hones can also rough up and clean up the surface of a
cheap strop with with the same DMT and then apply a thin
layer of strop dressing. Some can also wrap a strop with news print
to practice. Small nicks on news print... who cares.
For some news print does a fine job as a strop and works as well for
them sometimes replacing the want or need for a pasted strop.

Hey, PhatMan also helped ne out and let me know the nicks on my strop could be qorked out. He said,...

"WRT nicks on the strop, you can use 600 'grit' silcon carbide paper either flat, or wrapped around a pencil to gently sand down the nicks." -PhatMan

Hope it helps.
-Dan

Originally Posted by FacialDirt

Hey, PhatMan also helped ne out and let me know the nicks on my strop could be qorked out. He said,...

"WRT nicks on the strop, you can use 600 'grit' silcon carbide paper either flat, or wrapped around a pencil to gently sand down the nicks." -PhatMan

Hope it helps.
-Dan

Good hint....!

Not for a fine strop but a strop like the Illinois 827
with the split/ rough side of the leather. Or a
dandy "Tandy " home made strop.
Those with a DMT lap to keep hones flat
can also use it on a damaged strop. It
has the advantage of not shedding grit.
The result is a suede like finish that is
not too shabby. Same for a slab of shoe
leather glued to a board for a pasted strop.
Also it can sand the surface of balsa strops if
they ever get uneven or full of swarf.

If you 'sand' something with oil or grease
on it be sure to clean the DMT with detergent
before you lap another hone.

I'll be honest with you. You're better at it than I am. I am light years ahead of where I was in shaving, honing, and lathering, but my stropping hasn't improved much. I still find it nearly impossible to flip the shank back and forth between the thumb and forefinger while flattening my wrist, and am hoping that practice will make this possible.

Practice with a number two pencil. It is the easiest most natural motion in the world.

Any idea where I should look for that 600 grit silicon carbide paper?

Your local hardware store should sell it. Or you can order it online as well.