Thread: Illinois Razor Strop Company

I understand that the 24" cordovan strops were made from leather that came from large draft horses which provided the size required. Have the number of draft horses (Percheons, Clydesdales) dwindled that much in the last century?

Scott

Geeeez . . . and all this time I've been feeling bad for the badgers!

Originally Posted by honedright

I understand that the 24" cordovan strops were made from leather that came from large draft horses which provided the size required. Have the number of draft horses (Percheons, Clydesdales) dwindled that much in the last century?

Scott

I think the uses for the horses have changed and therefore the availablity of the hides. In early times, well into the 1900s draft horses were used for much hauling as well as agricultural use in plowing, etc... They were work horses, beasts of burden really and when the were retired or died their meat and hides were used for whatever they could. Today, although the magnificent horses are still plentiful they are privately owned on farms and for show. When they pass or are put down they would rarely be sold having basically serving as pets and loved by someone.

My daughter owns 7 quarter horses and they are as dear to her as any house pet and animals like this never enter the recycling market when they die.

Tony

Originally Posted by Tony Miller

My daughter owns 7 quarter horses and they are as dear to her as any house pet and animals like this never enter the recycling market when they die.

Do you think your daughter would notice if just a strip of hide were missing one morning?

Tony, One thing I've been meaning to ask you. The Illinois strops I've seen have separate handles for the canvas and the leather, allowing them to be pulled taut individually. The strop I got from you (which I like very much) has the canvas and leather attached at both ends, so the shorter one will be pulled tight but the (ever so slightly) longer one will have some slack. Why did you choose this design?

Tony, what about linen hose? Have you tried sourcing that?

I use linen (cotton) on all of my strops. I used to buy a certian weight from Tilly when it was available and have finally found a direct source right from the mill. I have a variety of weights and widths. Not easy stuff to find.

The material Illinois uses is flat weave, like mine, not tubular but they inpregnate or coat it to achieve the super stiff feel. Mine has a firm body but a soft napp to it. I also have one now that has a slicker finish much like it has been waxed but it is simply a smooth "ironed" type finish.

It seems that quite a variety of material will work. Jemico strops use a very soft loose weave linen, Illinois uses what feels like a hard starched material and mine is like Baby Bear's Porridge......."just right" <g>.

Tony

Originally Posted by Tony Miller

I use linen (cotton) on all of my strops.
Tony

Tony, ever considered using real linen? Ed Simon indicates it is more abrasive:

Originally Posted by honedright

I had a very interesting conversation this morning with Mr. Ed Simon at Fromm International.

And he mentioned something about the superior abrasive quality of linen over cotton in the manufacture of canvas strops. This may help clarify the intended purpose of using the linen when stropping.
Scott

Linen has been available (especially in Europe) much longer than cotton, so the old barbers must have used it instead of cotton.

Linen (Flax) and Canvas (Hemp) are two most used materials for the "other" side of the strop. They have unique properties for maintaining and preparing the edge for the leather strop. While Linen was more available to the states, the Canvas was used more in Europe, and today, DOVO is still using Hemp for the canvas side of their strops.

Flax fiber properties:
When adequately prepared, linen has the ability to absorb and lose water rapidly. It can gain up to 20% moisture without feeling damp. When freed from impurities it is highly absorbent and will quickly remove perspiration from the skin.

It does not stretch and is resistant to damage from abrasion.

Linen is relatively easy to take care of since it resists dirt and stains, has no lint or pilling tendencies and can be dry cleaned, machine washed or steamed.

It can withstand high temperatures and only has some moderate initial shrinkage.

Due to its strength, in the Middle Ages linen was used for shields and gambeson.

Irish linen is the best wrap of pool/billiard cues, due to its absorption of sweat from hands.

Paper made of linen can be very strong and crisp, which is why the United States and many other countries print their currency on paper that is made from 25% Linen and 75% Cotton.

Hemp fiber properties:

70% of the Cannabis plant's total weight is made up of the 'hurd' or woody inner core.

The silica leached from soil by the plant combined with unslaked lime (calcium oxide) forms a chemical bond similar to cement which is both fire and waterproof.

It was used to make the first pieces of fabric ever found and was therefore also used as the first material for paper. It was used to make canvas, and the word itself is derived from cannabis.

Hemp rope is notorious for breaking due to rot. Hemp rope rots from the inside out, and thus the rope looks good until it breaks. Hemp rope used in the age of sail was protected by tarring.


Nenad

Originally Posted by Kees

Tony, ever considered using real linen? Ed Simon indicates it is more abrasive:
Linen has been available (especially in Europe) much longer than cotton, so the old barbers must have used it instead of cotton.

Kees,
Sadley though the manufacturers and mill only weave the material in cotton now days.
Do remember though that Ed Simon, a valuable resource I admit is recalling the good old days. I don't think you will find any maker out there doing things this way today simply because the materials are not available. Tubular "hose" woven cloth, linen belting, horsehide, etc...... When the large market nearly vanished those items stopped being needed or made. It is increasingly hard to source many of the fine components any more.

Tony

Originally Posted by Howard Wallace

The strop I got from you (which I like very much) has the canvas and leather attached at both ends, so the shorter one will be pulled tight but the (ever so slightly) longer one will have some slack. Why did you choose this design?

Howard,

In different climates and humidity the two pieces of the strop may seem slightly different. The idea is to pull just enough that both become taught and you will have the correct tension. If for some reason one has stretched too much and you cannot get them taught let me take a look at it and make it work for you. All of mine are still fine but occasionally a piece may have more give in it than others.

I am adding some different hardware options on my strops, mainly the more basic models to make them lok even nicer. I may change the bottom attachment though now that I hear about this.

Thanks,
Tony