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Thread: Stropping Strategies

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    Enthusiast Gammaray's Avatar
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    I don't use #2.

    My routine is closer to #3 for 30-40 passes then finish with #1 for 20-30 passes. Light pressure and loose strop followed by taut strop and always light pressure. If the edge needs any pressure on the strop then I go back to my CrO balsa for a few strokes or even a touch up on the Naniwa 12k. I never try to "sharpen" my blade on the strop. Overall, I like your recommendations. I think the two most common mistakes in stropping are too much edge pressure OR too tight on the strop with no deflection at all.

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    AFDavis11 (01-19-2012)

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    Different strops for different grinds! I really prefer full hollows and have increasingly gravitated toward lighter draw strops for these. Stiffer grinds require a little more pull for me. Recently got a fantastic HH and despite the light draw, it is extremely tactile and the lighter touch, as indicated above, really works great for me....

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    ace
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    Senior Member blabbermouth ace's Avatar
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    I've recently given up on linen, in my case the rough seatbelt-like material. It seemed to me that it was rough on edges, and I wasn't really sure of its benefits anyway. I think it sent two of my blades back to the hones.

    I use a paddle strop and find that I can sense "bite" on it too. As I start stropping, the friction warms the English Bridle pad, the warmth increases the draw noticeably and the "bite" is when you can literally feel the leather working on the edge. Of course, on a paddle, with no deflection, I can use some pressure.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ace View Post
    I've recently given up on linen, in my case the rough seatbelt-like material. It seemed to me that it was rough on edges, and I wasn't really sure of its benefits anyway. I think it sent two of my blades back to the hones.

    I use a paddle strop and find that I can sense "bite" on it too. As I start stropping, the friction warms the English Bridle pad, the warmth increases the draw noticeably and the "bite" is when you can literally feel the leather working on the edge. Of course, on a paddle, with no deflection, I can use some pressure.
    I too have a quality strop with seatbelt-like linen, maybe even rougher. I cringe any time I put a hollow grind on it. It makes me wonder how all these people who make such great strops can think so little of the linen component to throw any old canvas potato sack material on there. I dream of a quality strop with excellent linen AND a nice drawing leather.

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