Thread: Question re: leather for homemade / DIY strop

I wasn't having a go at you mate, I was just offering up my thoughts. I'm sorry if you thought I was attacking your comment.

I have no idea why you blokes would be able to obtain 'roo hide at a cheaper price than us here in the land of Skippies though . I don't recall the new prices offhand, but the price here, for a first grade hide, before the price increase, was AU$145 per sq metre (3 ft sq). We must be taxing ourselves stupid over here (Nothing surprising about that!).


Mick

No Offense taken.your thoughts are well respected.
Actually I can get grade A roo hides at $18/sq/ft w'sale,but thats well over $150 USD per sq yard,spendy stuff.
Regards,Bill

Regarding the best leather, well It's pretty much been said above, its all about what you prefer to use.

If you have a leather shop nearby or a saddlery, you could go in and check out the leather's first hand to see what you like. There's a number of different leather outlets on the net and I'm sure if you call them or email them, they'll tell you the differences in the leather they have.

Myself, I use two different leathers, horsehide and oil tanned blacksmiths leather, I think is actually cowhide. My buddy gave me a piece to make 4 strops with it.

The blacksmiths leather is actually suppler than the horsehide and I use it for my wedges. The horsehide is smoother and harder and I use it more for full hollows and etc.

Happy to have found this thread, as old as it is. Been looking for answers to these very questions.

Thank you, gents
SB

So first leather is leather. Different leathers will provide some what different results, mostly draw. I am always surprised by how well suede polished a bevel, but worry about the edge. It does work well for tools and I have a Kankayama fine suede strop that gives a polished bevel and nice edge.

I have made strops from many kinds of leather and really they all perform pretty much the same, I recently purchased a Roo hide, that I have been told produces the finest polish for steel, but have not got to that project. So far the best substrate I have found is paper. I use a paper fabric and polyester canvas sail cloth for best results with or without paste/sprays.

So it depends on what you are trying to do with your strop. There is really much more you can do than just polish a bevel for maintenance.

Lately I have been experimenting on stropping between stones when honing with good results.
Hanging vs Paddle. For a novice I don’t think it matters, the key is keeping the spine on the strop until the razor stops moving. For a novice I believe a nylon or Polyester strop is great for learning. Nylon or Poly will polish a bevel as good or better than leather, especially with a novice where technique is more important than the substrate. That and Nylon/Poly is almost cut proof. And that is the biggest problem for the novice… you will nick or cut your first strop until you acquire the skill, even then it only takes one second of inattention to nick a strop.

For your first strop Veg tanned leather works fine. A 16-18 in X 3 inch is a perfect stropping size for hanging, 12X3 for paddles for razors, 4 inch width paddles for knives. If you make a paddle, you have to have a handle or built in securing system, clamping, rubber feet or sticky bottom.

A paddle will create a different bevel from a hanging strop. A paddle will leave a flat or flatter bevel than a hanging strop that will couture the bevel to an apple seed shape, I believe a stronger shape for a razor edge, especially so with a pasted strop.

Get the smoothest leather you can find, though I do not think wrinkle or defects matter all that much. Most of us have stropped on nicked or uneven repaired strop for years with no ill effects. I have a Latigo strop with a thin wrinkle that runs down the middle and it has no effect on the results.

I also, contrary to sage advice, treat my leather to make it suppler. I have used all kinds of oils from WD40 to Ballistol with good results. Softer gives more draw as the soft leather has more contact with the leather and resulting polish. You will have to experiment and find what works for you. WD40 will clean a vintage strop very well even remove almost completely Chrome Oxide and other paste from vintage strops and leave the leather very supple. Ballistol will make any stiff leather soft.

There is much folklore about leather, leather strop making and maintenance. And there are new 21st century substrates that are as good as or better than leather, so experiment.

My preference for razor stropping is a hanging strop with a 2in D ring on each end, one for attaching to a door knob with a paracord lanyard the other for hooking your thumb through to tension the strop.

How do you plan on attaching your hardware?

Myself, I'll probably make a paddle type strop, attaching it to 1/4 board and a hanging strop, using rings.

Again, thank you gentlemen
SB

Originally Posted by MickR

I have no idea why you blokes would be able to obtain 'roo hide at a cheaper price than us here in the land of Skippies though . I don't recall the new prices offhand, but the price here, for a first grade hide, before the price increase, was AU$145 per sq metre (3 ft sq). We must be taxing ourselves stupid over here (Nothing surprising about that!).


Mick

Its not as expensive as you think...slight arithmetic error on your part 1 square meter is 9+ sq ft.

Originally Posted by Splashone

Its not as expensive as you think...slight arithmetic error on your part 1 square meter is 9+ sq ft.

10.764 to be exact

¼ inch MDF works well for paddles, 12 inches is plenty of area for a paddle. I like the ¼ inch thickness as they are easy to store, drill a ½ inch hole through one end and hang or stack in a drawer, I have several stored both ways.

Build in an uncovered section for a handle to hold or clamp to your bench. I leave an inch or so on each end and clamp the strop to a woodworking bench pinching the paddle between wooden dogs and end vice. A strip of rubber drawer liner work well for holding them to the bench also.

I find paddle stropping harder than a hanging strop for razors, it is just an awkward angle for me. Rarely do I use paddles, except for testing new compounds or substrates and for knives.

Being new to SR's, I understand that alotta folks recommend newbs to start with the paddle type. Last thing I want to.do is dull a razor with a bad form of stropping. No doubt I'll build a hanger as well.

Thanks Euclid,
SB