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05-07-2013, 10:20 PM #1
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Posts
- 4
Thanked: 0When does honing end and paste stropping begin?
Hi All,
So I am researching and I have a questions regarding the Thiers Issard Bio-diamond paste system (6, 3, 1, .25) and how it fits in with hones.
If someone had say Shapton GS 1K, 4K, 8K, 16K and then started in on the pastes how much overlap could there be? Does the 6 micron paste replace some of those hones?
How would that work with other hones like Norton or Naniwa?
I am just borrowing a friends straight right now, so before I invest I want to be sure I get the right sort of setup.
Thanks and cheers!
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05-07-2013, 10:44 PM #2
Welcome to SRP
The question I think you need answered is "How am I going to maintain my razor?". My answer assuming you aren't planing on honing ebay specials: Start with .5 micron Crox on a strop and, a fine synthetic stone like GS 16k. For further research read What hone(s), paste(s), or spray(s) do I need?
For your actual questions
Of the pastes the one that would likely improve the edge off 16k is the .25. BTW diamond pastes are generally considered to give a harsh edge. Using diamond on hard felt seems to smooth it out.
Yes you can use low grit pastes to replace hones, but it increases the difficulty of obtaining or maintaining a flat bevel.
Enjoy the learning curves.
JonathanLast edited by Datsots; 05-07-2013 at 10:53 PM.
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05-07-2013, 10:50 PM #3
I don't think you'd want to overlap pastes and hones. Usually, after a 12k or so, one would go to chrome ox (I think .5) or .5 or .25 diamond, or whatever is preferred. And that is the key word. In that range, it's entirely down to personal preference.
If you don't have hones, you can do a paste progression instead. Not something I've ever done or seen in person, but I have read about it.
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05-08-2013, 12:23 AM #4
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Posts
- 6,038
Thanked: 1195Just to echo what holli4 said, if you already have a hone set (whether it be Norton, Shapton, Naniwa) pastes should only be used to refine a shave ready edge (8k+). You can also use them for the occasional touch up as well.
The paste-only approach seems to be more popular in Europe, especially Germany IIRC. There aren't many members here at all that follow that procedure, most are rock hounds
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05-08-2013, 01:00 AM #5
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
- Location
- Roseville,Kali
- Posts
- 10,432
Thanked: 2027As you gain more experiance,i think you will realize pastes,sprays, potions, cannot hold a candle to using and mastering the proper stones.
been there,done that,got rid of them all.When i learned how to hone,but I still use the TT wordTAPE Is MY FRIEND.
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05-08-2013, 01:28 AM #6
Welcome! An idea, Raymond. Go to member introductions. Introduce and give your locale. You will get some advise!
"Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
I rest my case.
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05-08-2013, 02:23 AM #7
Guess I am the oddball on this forum. I do almost all paste except for setting the bevel.
Here is a post I did on pasted strops.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/strop...ugh-guide.htmlLast edited by Castel33; 05-08-2013 at 02:37 AM.
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05-08-2013, 02:34 AM #8
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05-07-2013, 10:49 PM #9
- Join Date
- Dec 2012
- Location
- Long Island NY
- Posts
- 1,378
Thanked: 177Diamond pasted strops are used edge trailing as opposed to edge leading. The 3 um is about 8k equivalent and the 1 um is about 14k equivalent. If you get a shapton setup as you describe, you could use maybe a .5 micron crox on paddle or linen(I like linen). The others arent necesary IMO. I have used pasted leather, linen, felt and balsa for crox or diamond slurry and never larger than 1 um. I like hones and use dmts for bevels, norton 4/8k naniwa 12k and crox on linen. Theres a million ways to skin a cat though.
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05-08-2013, 02:37 AM #10
Sorry here it is:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/strop...ugh-guide.html