Thread: How to Make a Good Strop?

Originally Posted by gssixgun

The problem in your post is that, many of the answers you seek are tied to the Strop leather that you are going to choose , so before we can answer directly you have to choose, we can only suggest, but you have to choose..this is why the answers you are seeking seem vague and hard to nail down, basically "You are so new, that you don't know what you don't know"

I suggest you start with a good Veg Tanned leather, 6-9 oz weight

Good luck from there

I appreciate the authenticity in horse hide or latigo, but I do other leather work that can use some quality veg tanned cow hide. For that reason, my choice is definitely veg tanned.

I already have a shoulder of 9oz veg tanned cow hide, but I used all the good bits for other projects. I might be able to salvage something, but I imagine that irregularities in the surface would make for a bad strop.

With that said, I am considering purchasing another hide, but not sure of what weight. I like the idea of a lightweight strop around 5oz, but I won't see as much use for the leftover. Maybe I will just make a bunch of strops...

Does anyone know about "boning" the leather, and if it effects the ideal weight? Google searches came up with nothing but boning as in adding stiff supports to holsters, corsets, etc.

Originally Posted by cariocarj01

Thanks for the answer!

The one i bought is this here: ★ Natural VEG Tan Leather Off Cut 4 5mm Thick Available in s M L XL UK Stock | eBay

Maybe i can use it to a paddle strop?

EDIT:

I just found a conversion chart and it's something arround 12 ounces!!!

Tooling leather is so tough that the thickness shouldn't effect the surface's stiffness, so if it's fixed to a solid object it shouldn't matter what weight it is.

If you mean a strop looped around a piece of wood that allows the leather to flex like a hanging strop, the weight will effect the results. 12oz leather is so thick that flexing it on a strop like that would take too much force, possibly screwing up your edge.

Originally Posted by Sirnanigans

I appreciate the authenticity in horse hide or latigo, but I do other leather work that can use some quality veg tanned cow hide. For that reason, my choice is definitely veg tanned.

I already have a shoulder of 9oz veg tanned cow hide, but I used all the good bits for other projects. I might be able to salvage something, but I imagine that irregularities in the surface would make for a bad strop.

With that said, I am considering purchasing another hide, but not sure of what weight. I like the idea of a lightweight strop around 5oz, but I won't see as much use for the leftover. Maybe I will just make a bunch of strops...

Does anyone know about "boning" the leather, and if it effects the ideal weight? Google searches came up with nothing but boning as in adding stiff supports to holsters, corsets, etc.

Originally Posted by Sirnanigans

Tooling leather is so tough that the thickness shouldn't effect the surface's stiffness, so if it's fixed to a solid object it shouldn't matter what weight it is.

If you mean a strop looped around a piece of wood that allows the leather to flex like a hanging strop, the weight will effect the results. 12oz leather is so thick that flexing it on a strop like that would take too much force, possibly screwing up your edge.

Ok then

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Ok then

Would you recommend aiming closer to 6 or 9 ounce leather? Is it just personal preference or dependent on the blade?

Originally Posted by Sirnanigans

Would you recommend aiming closer to 6 or 9 ounce leather? Is it just personal preference or dependent on the blade?

Already asked and answered above,

Good luck

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Already asked and answered above,

Good luck

Oh, I mean if it's better to go with 6 or to go with 9. Perhaps the type of blade/grind effects this.

Anyway, thanks for the info above, that gets me shopping for the basic materials. Now I just have to figure out about linen/denim backing and/or polishing compound.

Originally Posted by Sirnanigans

Oh, I mean if it's better to go with 6 or to go with 9. Perhaps the type of blade/grind effects this.

Anyway, thanks for the info above, that gets me shopping for the basic materials. Now I just have to figure out about linen/denim backing and/or polishing compound.

Really to be honest I think your going to technical on this. Just get some leather and strop on it. As long as it has no surface issues you should be good. I don't even have handles on mine its just a piece of leather with a hole punched on top and a carabiner put through it. The initial conditioning I put on it was the australian stuff but i think it was not necessary. I did another one where I just took a cotton ball and squirted a bit of neetsfoot on it and wrung the excess out and then I rubbed the cotton ball on it and that was enough for a 3x50 strip. That was over a year ago and I have not done anything else too it since not even palm rubbing on it and it seems to be working fine as far as my face can tell.

Strops are super easy heck you can even use your bare arm or palm if you wanted to. Whats easier than that.

remember K.I.S.S.

Originally Posted by cariocarj01

Thanks for the answer!

The one i bought is this here: ★ Natural VEG Tan Leather Off Cut 4 5mm Thick Available in s M L XL UK Stock | eBay

Maybe i can use it to a paddle strop?

EDIT:

I just found a conversion chart and it's something arround 12 ounces!!!

Hey cariocarj, i would suggest simply trying out the leather and see how you go, the no name strop i mentioned earlier must be close to that thickness. That is assuming it is otherwise flat and smooth.

My leather size/thickness of choice is 7/8. Cow, horse, or buffalo the thickness and stiffness seem to be right. If you plan on attaching a backing to the leather then a bit thinner would work. An excellent choice would be veg tanned cow 7/8 with polypro web backing, makes a fun and effective strop.

I have read about boning leather as a method of polishing and massaging it and sometimes to imbue stains. I also read that it benefits a leather strop by effecting the silicates present in the leather. Does anybody have experience with boned and unboned strops, and an idea of what returns one might see for such an investment of elbow grease?

The biggest reason I ask is because the ~9oz shoulder cut I have is thick enough to sand down and make into a consistent weight, however the surface has creases, warping, etc.. I would like to believe that rather than just soaking it and flattening it while wet, I can use a method like boning to simultaneously loosen the fibers and condition the surface. The process to an extent, and the benefits near entirely, elude me as I try to find information from other sources online.