Thread: Help for treating leather for a paddle strop

Hello…I am another newbie and joined about a month ago. I have been DE shaving for about 3 months and have now got the urge to go “straight” if you know what I mean. I have sent my father’s King straight razor to Razor Emporium in Phoenix for restoration and honing. I just received it back and they did a great job. Now I am trying to get the courage to begin using it. I have watched all the videos and tutorials, but I want to make sure I know how to strop effectively before beginning. I bought a couple of straight razors at antique shops for practicing stropping and honing. I have seen several recommendations from you experts to learn to strop on a paddle strop. So, I want to build one.


I have some questions about building a paddle strop. I found a page on the site by “Maniaman; August 2009. "Making a Paddle Strop - Tutorial.” I bought a 3” precut piece of 8 oz. cowhide and I am going to use it to build my strop. My question is regarding Maniaman’s description of treating the leather prior to glueing it on the wood. He states that it was treated using the "Iwasaki's method of treating the leather." Could someone tell me what this means and how to go about it? If not, could someone recommend the best way to treat it? I have seen several methods on the site from Mineral Oil, Neets Foot Oil, to regular strop dressing, etc. Does anyone have any recommendations for the best way?


Thanks in advance for your advice.

Here you go…

Try stropping on a piece of 2 in. nylon strapping, from a Fabric store. They are almost cut proof and will deliver almost as good an edge as leather, until you develop the skill. Cost you 2-3 dollars.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Here you go…

Try stropping on a piece of 2 in. nylon strapping, from a Fabric store. They are almost cut proof and will deliver almost as good an edge as leather, until you develop the skill. Cost you 2-3 dollars.

Concur - or just get a 2" seatbelt out of a wreck at the junkyard. 2" width in fabric-speak, by the way, means more like 1 7/8". It took me a while to get the motion on something as narrow as a 1" travel strop but, IMO, better to develop a controlled X-stroke on something 2 1/2" or less from the get go. Wider strops are fine but learning a whippy X-stroke off the bat can serve you well in both stropping- and subsequent honing motions.

here is good read, it recommends neatsfoot oil to condition. you can also the side of a glass bottle to reduce the draw if the neatsfoot gives the strop too much draw.

Strop treatment and repair - Straight Razor Place Library

Just a small FYI...
The username is Mainaman, though I think Maniaman sounds like more fun.