Thread: Strop Restoration - Martin J Rubin

Amen to that. RIP Neil

Sorry no photos (yet) but, I finally reached the critical mass area in regards to neatsfoot oil. It isn't abosorbing as much any more and I get a bit coming off in my hand when I hand rub the strop.

Sadly, I am not uber enthusiastic about how the strop came out. I think I boogered up the look of it when I tried scrubbing it with saddle soap. Also, I think in some areas, the leather was just too shot out. The center part of the strop seems to be okay, but its really fragile and falling apart a bit close to the bottom, by the logo. Also when stropping, the strop appears to "cup" on the edges and I have to pull really tight to keep it flat.

Running a razor back and forth on it today about 100 times, it was as if I was conditioning the leather and knocking off a layer of gunk. My straight razor was coated in a layer of felt like brown gunk. I imagine this is just old material that will eventually get all knocked off as I get to the "good" leather .

The linen aspect is really nice, and at the end of the day, I may take the linen and match it up with the horsehide "Clydesdale" strop I restored a few weeks ago. The funny thing is, the leather on that strop feels twice as thick as this one I am currently finishing up on.

Originally Posted by MJC

Great thread and thank you all for sharing.

I have a King Shell that came in with some bay razors that is in pretty good shape (pics to follow)
The second strop is pressed leather with Crox in pretty good shape.
The shell side is a little dirty, still very supple but it has a cut on one edge that I think will close up well with contact cement.

My question to the group is the order of repair.

I was thinking:
Fix the cut
Sand if necessary
Gently clean the grim with saddle soap
Condition if nessiscary
Leave the Crox side alone for the moment.

Is that the correct order?

I have been doing leather work for a while, and dealing with old saddles and tack since I was a kid. I would suggest avoiding saddle soap, until you clean it with a damp (but not dripping) rag several times. Let it fully dry (24 to 48 hours) between each attempt. If you put saddle soap on it from the get go, you will change the feel and surface of the leather, so it may not absorb any conditioner or oil, and may make it harder to clean. This doesn't matter with saddles as much, because they aren't being used to strop a blade. After the strop is clean and dry, if it needs conditioner, put very light coats on, and let it dry 24-48 hours between coats. Any moisture you put on the leather needs time for the fibers to absorb it and move it from the surface to the interior. Good luck!

@TheFiveO, it sounds like your leather might be too far gone. Pictures would help, but if parts of the surface are flaking off, you probably won't ever get an even, smooth surface to strop on.