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Thread: A Strop Project
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09-16-2015, 05:54 PM #11
Hirlau, we haven't spoken much, but I have great respect & appreciation for your posts.
My local leather shop (Portland Leather) scores an edge w/ a ballpoint along a metal straightedge before reaching for a blade. Next, takes a blade along the same straight edge & tries to keep it in the bottom of the trough created by the ballpoint. Next, uses a straight edge cutting tool (about $20) which is simply a blade w/ a width-limiting guide, cutting inside the slice left by the knife. I wasn't worth a dang at cutting straight either. If the variation in the cut is minimal, an edging tool will make it undetectable. For finish-burnishing the edge, the traditional method is literally to wipe spit on the raw edge, and burnish w/ a wooden handled tool - even a wooden kitchen spoon. (Thank You HidestoArt)
HidestoArt is probably the most experienced leather worker I'll ever have the pleasure to speak with. And, he's a wonderful guy. Connecting with him is sure to be informative, and a great pleasure.
All Best to you & yours, Hirlau
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The Following User Says Thank You to pinklather For This Useful Post:
Hirlau (09-16-2015)
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09-16-2015, 06:21 PM #12
Very nicely done, good job. Let us know how the fire hose works out for you.
Did you burnish the leather with an old Pinaud bottle.
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The Following User Says Thank You to apipeguy For This Useful Post:
Hirlau (09-16-2015)
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09-16-2015, 06:33 PM #13
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09-16-2015, 06:37 PM #14
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09-18-2015, 01:05 PM #15
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Thanked: 3215Looks good, John.
I cut a half circle, cutouts in the end caps, the curve cut is stronger than a square cut. I use a punch, but an Exacto knife works. Cut the cap the same width as the strop.
The 2in D ring fits a 3in strop nicely.
You can also burnish and round the edges with a bit of watered down hide glue and a small plastic wheel with a concave surface (screen door replacement wheel) . Dab some glue on the edge and rub with the wheel, it will round the edge and glue the loose fibers down. Tandy sells edge dressing, but I think it is just hide glue. They also sell wood and plastic slickers, for a few bucks.
If you want a good swivel, Ace Hardware(about $5) snaps to the D ring with a nylon or leather lanyard on the other end. I normally just use an 18 in piece of Para Cord, fits over a doorknob nicely.
If you are cutting long straight cuts with a knife, Clamp a metal straight edge over the leather to a table or bench. A drop of Loctite, keeps the Chicago Screws from working loose.
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09-18-2015, 05:41 PM #16
Some great ideas,,,, it will be a week or so before I finish out the two cotton straps I have left.
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09-22-2015, 01:00 AM #17
For the d-ring that is too small to get your hand into, consider getting a strip of leather, about 3/8th of a inch wide and 12 inches long, and tying a loop in it. You will be able to hang onto that much easier.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Drygulch For This Useful Post:
Hirlau (09-22-2015)
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09-22-2015, 01:43 AM #18
I have plenty of leather left,,, that's a good idea.
I just got the hardware today to finish the remaining 2 strips of linen that Geezer gave me,,, they are much bigger & will work on them tomorrow night,,,,,,,,,,pics to follow.
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09-22-2015, 01:44 AM #19
I got the big D-Rings that Euclid suggested for the remaining strops.
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09-22-2015, 01:57 AM #20
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The Following User Says Thank You to Geezer For This Useful Post:
Hirlau (09-22-2015)