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Thread: Jute as a Back Strop?

  1. #11
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    Thanks all for the feedback. I think I'll continue with what I've been doing: just using the leather strop. The jute looks awfully coarse and seems like it could do more harm than good. I'll use leather until it seems the blade needs a touch up, then try it. If it works, fine. If not, I would have had to touch it up with stones anyway.
    Steve
    Thistle Cutlery Co. 5/8; Rolls Razors (Imperial 2 & Viscount); Merkur 39C (Sledgehammer), Parker Variant

  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth tintin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PuFFaH View Post
    It will work OK but will need breaking in just like any other linen/canvas strop.
    what is the best way to break in a strop? i guess it didn't know it way necasary and just used my linen without any breaking in.

  3. #13
    Junior Tinkerer Srdjan's Avatar
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    Read Iwasaki's honing manual (I think I saw it in there), or Kanoyama's instructions for breaking in the linen/fabric side and break it in.... With a hammer! Soak it, slam it, but make sure you protect the leather well against soapy water and splashing. I would probably use fabric softener, too.

    I have jute available near me and I will try it. I've actually been meaning to post a discussion related to jute, because I can't seem to find cotton webbing anywhere, in a suitable size. Thanks for creating this thread!
    As the time passes, so we learn.

  4. #14
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    Srdjan, I look forward to hearing your results with jute!
    Steve
    Thistle Cutlery Co. 5/8; Rolls Razors (Imperial 2 & Viscount); Merkur 39C (Sledgehammer), Parker Variant

  5. #15
    Senior Member blabbermouth Kees's Avatar
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    I have been experimenting with various genuine linen webbings, never felt the need to break them in.
    Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.

  6. #16
    Junior Tinkerer Srdjan's Avatar
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    Coming soon....
    As the time passes, so we learn.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Blistersteel's Avatar
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    I've made linen type jute strops before.
    Wash it a few times in the washing machine to clear the residue out. Put it in a delicate's bag or it will tangle badly

    Next let it air dry spread out.

    Now go to a 2by4 wooden board and do a hide flesher stroke back and forth on both sides until the surface turns silken to your touch.

    Now singe it lightly to reduce the fluff and cut it to the length you desire. You are done ,congratulations.
    Last edited by Blistersteel; 01-05-2016 at 08:38 PM.

  8. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Blistersteel For This Useful Post:

    Srdjan (01-05-2016), tintin (01-05-2016), WW243 (01-15-2016)

  9. #18
    Still hasn't shut up PuFFaH's Avatar
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    Burnishing till polished is the basic way but as mentioned you can take the risky route of washing in warm water and soap to shrink the weave before hand. Setting the weave firm with soap lather dressing is another option as well as the wax dressing method.
    I'm sure these methods have been discussed on this forum.
    Don't be fooled by the roughness thinking it will dull the edge....it won't.
    Kees likes this.

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    Srdjan (01-05-2016)

  11. #19
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    The jute is still WAY softer than the hardened high carbon steel of your razor. I would break it in as several have stated & use it!

    Slawman

  12. #20
    Junior Tinkerer Srdjan's Avatar
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    I washed it in laundry detergent, then put some hair conditioner on it (turns out, we don't use dedicated softener in our house). It got a lot softer. It will make a great addition to my leather strops, I'm sure.
    Blistersteel and Slawman like this.
    As the time passes, so we learn.

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