Thread: Bill Barber AKA Pixelfixed, loom strop recreation.

So, is the handle/threaded rod just held against the base from the tension of the strop or is there some kind of retaining ring holding it?
That is interesting about the dye. I don't know what kind you use but i've always been pleased with Fiebings Pro dye It gives a nice solid color but i don't know if it has the same effect on the leather as what you used.

Wow, those are amazing works of art, Mike. I think Bill/Pixelfixed would be pleased. Is that black and white ebony? I have been ogling the extensive collection of it that Cook Woods has, and have been meaning to order some-I think it's prettier even than black ebony.

Originally Posted by tcrideshd

Andrew. Good to see your still around. Finally got a bottle of blue Floyd from Dave at the Texas meet. Then promptly dropped it and broke it. So I need to call mission impossible guys up to figure out how to smuggler that bottle you have. I haven’t cryed since I wrecked an old Harley. But that bottle hitting the pavement hurt my feelings��

Bottle still here with your name on it.

If we have another GTG this summer, and someone is up from the US, I'm sure we will work something out.

The 3/8th tensioner is threaded and glued into the handle, and there is a locking collar under the top brace that holds the handle firm to the top piece but with enough clearance to rotate on the brass either side of the wood. It seems to hold very true, so I have not run the 3/8th rod all the way to the base, but may if it looks like there is stability issues once they are all assembled.
The top piece is locked via the threads and jamb nuts to the base piece, which is also threaded and jamb nutted onto the 8mm rods. So only that middle piece moves and only up and down, no side play as the rods once tightened keep the frame ‘box’ straight and tight.
The ebony I used is the mottled stuff from India as opposed to Africa. I too like the patterning more than just solid black with grain that the Gabon stuff has.

I went with fossilized mammoth ivory inlays in two of the handles.
The coco has a thin strip of ancient irish bog oak in the handle, as well as brass.
The ebony is steel accents, and mammoth ivory.

Laying multiple coats of the aniline on adds some nice depth to the hide.
This may be a blessing in disguise.
The splitting was only at the corners, top and bottom, not mid strop so maybe I’m just being fussy.
The stuff I used was also fiebings, but not their pro series.
I’ve also tried some dye and solvent based stuff for ink jet printers, and while very black, it was not good for the skin.
I have lots of aniline though so will run these trials out then decide if natural is really the best solution for the hide quality.

At the end of the project, hide quality and feel against the blade is the ONLY thing that matters.
Fancy hardware and framework mean butkiss if the leather isn’t ideal..

Purchased some new fiebings, water based black once i realised i had no black aniline dye on hand.
Did mix up some fresh green though to compare to the water based black.


On the second coat i bumped the black dauber accidental against the green one so decided to try to antique it with swatches of black.
I also went with 7-8oz horse this time instead of the 5oz as on the first go.
Maybe the 5 was to thin for a loom and would have split when wound as tight as i left them regardless.
I went beyond where I’d tension them for use intentionally as i wanted to see how they would hold up to high tension over time.
I think most users would never wind it that taut.


Both hides are softening up nicely as they dry.
Looks promising.

I am curious Mike, have you considered roo hide?

Yes I have Scott.
Never tried roo at all, but interested, if I can source some hide.
This week it’s all about the hide finish.
Using my flat strop as my working experiment I’ve started to add hydration via mink oil to get through saturation without build up..
Been working my edges as well to both seal, and finish them properly.


Best burnishing gum out there, hands down.
Apply by finger to edge, let soak a minute, and burnish with appropriate tool.

And the finish is hard to capture but,

It is smooth and fast. But the edges seem to cup a bit. More attention, beveling, and rubbing still required.
Cheers gents.

Got a bit more done on the weeekend with the horsehide.

With the right skive the trimming got easier on the second sets of skins.

Gorilla glued them clamped up for 24 hrs.

And putting the wooden pieces through the polishing compounds and wheels.


Nearly done, and this thicker hide is perfect for loom strops.

Treated the hide, after dying, with mink oil from the front, and a mixture of thinned neatsfoot from the rear over a number of days. Coupled with lots of hand kneading and working the skin while watching the news.

Sweet Mary, those are beautiful.

From just a tool to a work of art. Great looking pieces.

Bob