Thread: Kanayama draw

I bought a Kanayama 70k as my 1st strop (admittedly a questionable decision... newbies: follow the conventional wisdom and buy a cheaper strop as your 1st) plus “replacement” suede and canvas pieces. I opted for the longest versions for the replacement pieces, with the idea to use them for my knives (they’re excellent for deburring).

My 1st razors were Kamisori and I ended up with a few dozen tiny nicks at the edges of my strop. So I worked on the strop in several sessions with the intent to smooth the damage. I started with a selection of my finest grit sandpapers. Did some testing and decided to work with 800-1500-3k. The nicks were easily repaired (smoothed but still visible). Then I rubbed the surface with a barely damp towel. The result was a much firmer drawing strop with a detectable nap.

Worried I had permanently altered the performance of my strop, I continued working razors over the next few weeks. The draw did not change. I decided to try something new. I have some 100% tung oil for my knife handles, that I mixed with some hot water (8-10 drops in about a pint of water). I covered the solution and shook it aggressively, then dumped the water and wiped out the glass with a microfiber towel. The result was a barely damp towel with a trace of 100% tung oil. I rubbed the strop thoroughly, re-wetting the towel as needed. I could tell there was oil in the mix but uniform application was very easy.

The strop was much improved after this process. The draw was barely faster and the nap was reduced. I worked razors on the strop an additional couple weeks and decided to sand a refinish the strop again. I used 3k sandpaper and did another tung oil treatment.

The strop was evolving. The tung oil application method was working, even though it’s not recommended anywhere I’ve seen. After an additional week or so of use, I rubbed it down, this time with no tung oil; just a damp microfiber towel. After this treatment the strop was very much different. Now it’s glassy again. No nap, performance is as new. The finish is glossy again and I’m impressed, if not surprised at the result.

Though I enjoyed excellent results I hesitate to recommend this treatment. I think adding oil is a bit risky, and likely not necessary. I think the key factor in the improvement was repeated use over time. My guess is I likely did some damage in my initial sanding. Then repeated use with the final 3k sanding and buffing with the damp towel finally restored the finish.

Until I try a new and better method, I will use the oil dilution and application method again. The basic idea is to make a temporary emulsion of (a trace of) oil in hot water to dampen a microfiber towel for application.

Pics show the strop, some nicks, and a couple shots of the current glossy/glassy finish.

Tung oil is a drying oil often used as a water proofing agent / finish. What the strop finish looks like is not as important as what it does to the bevel and edge.

The last thing you want on a strop is an abrasive of unknown hardness and size.

Cordovan leather is a stuffed leather, fats and waxes added and they can be drawn to the surface by burnishing, typically with a treated deer bone. I have hand good results with Reindeer antler, which can be purchased from pet stores. Deer bone for polishing is available but pricy, $30-40.

Euclid, great idea to burnish strop with a smooth antler.
Tom

I have one shell cordovan strop, not a Kanayama one, and have cleaned it with a soft damp cloth. I let it dry and the put a very light coat of pure carnauba wax on it. I've not done that often but it does return the draw to the original glass smooth feel.

Bob

I have a kanayama 70k. Great strop. But my go to is a russian shell i bought on eBay for 20 bucks. Comparing the 2 i would say the russian has a tiny bit more of draw. Ive done very little to them over the years. I have them hanging in a closet so dust isnt an issue. No oil at all and maybe once every couple years a damn cloth wipe.

A few days I got my first Kanayama #50000 strop, but the Canvas is very stiff. Anyone tips how to soften it?

The canvas needs to be softened. New kanayama canvas can damage the ecge.

The kanayama website has directions for softening the canvas.

I beat mine with the flat side of a meat tenderizer.

I used a rolling pin and the flat side of a meat tenderizer.
Washed and soaked it a couple of times and went heavy on the fabric softener.
It took a couple of days, but now it's perfect.

Pete <:-}

I threw mine in the washer with a load of towels on hand wash with fabric softener. Note that this will cause it to shrink about an inch unless you knead it, stretch it, and maybe hang it to dry with a weight on it. Being a little shorter doesn’t bother me but if you’re obsessive it might. The end cap will probably come off in a machine, just let everything dry and glue it back on. You can also hand wash it and knead it and it will shrink less.

Tip: when everything is flat and dry, rub the surface LIGHTLY just a COUPLE of times with an Atoma 400 or 600, this will raise a nap and noticeably soften the surface. The nap will eventually wear off, but your canvas should be in great shape by then, or you can re-raise the nap if you like it.

I got excellent results in softening Kanayama canvas using Atoma #600 and #1200. Quick, easy, precise.

The actual items I used are the CKTG slurry plates, which are approximately 3”X2” but any similar implement would give similar results; though I would not recommend sandpaper due to potential abrasive shedding.