Thread: cerium oxide question

You guys got me pretty curious about getting this stuff to put on one of my now unused strops. I think I'll try out that bar of soap application trick.

So I pulled the trigger on the Yellow Stone stuff listed in the link above. If I want to apply it to a linen strop, can I apply it to the back of one of my TM strops, or will it bleed through? Can I rub a bar of bath soap (dove, etc) on the linen and then apply to strop this?

I would use it on the back of the leather strop but it would rub on the front linen side when hanging.

Originally Posted by Disburden

So I pulled the trigger on the Yellow Stone stuff listed in the link above. If I want to apply it to a linen strop, can I apply it to the back of one of my TM strops, or will it bleed through? Can I rub a bar of bath soap (dove, etc) on the linen and then apply to strop this?

I would use it on the back of the leather strop but it would rub on the front linen side when hanging.

If you have the bar from Woodcraft use it as a crayon on your strop. The best medium that I have found is the poly webbing, As an added bonus try the reverse side of that strop after a month or so. Nice surprises await!

If you are using the pure powder try the Wool Linen Combo from SRD. That setup is a must have! The possibilities are endless.

So moving to pastes is like methadone weening in HAD rehab?


Must say all you guys have got me curious...

Originally Posted by AlanII

Sorry for my ignorance, but what does it do? Impart a finer polish? Not looking for an argument here, genuinely a little confused.

One of the sources of confusion is the difference between final
steps when honing a razor and everyday stropping.

Everyday stropping is not the same as the final steps
after honing on rocks (natural and man made). Everyday
stropping clean canvas, clean leather. After honing and for
weekly to monthly touch ups, lightly pasted strops have a
good place.

IMO, With modern ultra fine hones it is possible almost easy
to develop an edge that is ultra fine, harsh and needs a final
touch up. The classic solution was the silica in charcoal/ soot from
straw or more recently CrOx. Another common tool or method for managing
a micro burr is the pyramid method of honing (works well!).

The nice thing about CeOx and CrOx is that as abrasives go they
are mild and fine. I have picked up some lengths of Tandy
leather and have made pasted strops of them. My $25 buck bit
of leather turned into two strops. Four sides.... clean, CeOx, CrOx
and 2 micron diamond. The way too stiff Tandy leather minimizes
the rounding (in my minds eye) and cleans up a freshly honed edge.
Makes for an improved shave regardless.

Like I said: "The nice thing about CeOx and CrOx is that as abrasives go they
are mild and fine." Thus you can used them a lot more than some classic
pasted strop dressings but still moderation applies.

If only I had a loom strop like Lynn's monster I would be a happy man.
I did see some hardware at Lowes....

A pasted strop continues the hone. It carries on an abrasive process that polishes the edge of the blade to its highest level of refinement.
The smaller the size of the abrasive, the keener the blade.

Stropping has a peculiar effect on metal. Instead of compacting, and scrapping away metal, it washes and finishes the blade much like a wave levels a shore.

Originally Posted by Bladerunner

A pasted strop continues the hone. It carries on an abrasive process that polishes the edge of the blade to its highest level of refinement.
The smaller the size of the abrasive, the keener the blade.

Stropping has a peculiar effect on metal. Instead of compacting, and scrapping away metal, it washes and finishes the blade much like a wave levels a shore.

I like that ...
+1
"...like a wave levels the shore."