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Thread: replacement

  1. #1
    Senior Member dnullify's Avatar
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    Hey all. i've got a bit of a quick question.

    I'm not at all happy with my first strop i got a while ago. aside from 2 good nicks at the handle side of the strop (one of which i was able to cement, but the spine still bumps).

    It's a 14" Bismarck strop, but i didn't inspect it when i bought it. the top 2-3 inches are harder, dry, and cracked and in general it's a little difficult to use. the 10 usable inches i've got aren't even all that flat either. i paid $30 for the dang thing.

    I'm looking for a replacement, but i'd prefer not to spend too much. Partially because i've only been at this for little over a month, and am not 100% confident in my technique (not $85 sure).

    I was thinking about the whippeddog poor man's strop, but i don't think i'd like not having a handle. i'm tempted by some of the ebay offerings, but my current strop has showed me that looks can be deceiving.

    I'm planning on making myself another bench strop (made a bunch for my knives a while ago, they're all nicked up now), i've got a 16" block of wood and a large flank of leather in my garage. I'm not sure how it'll turn out though.

    Any suggestions are appreciated.

  2. #2
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    You could also try RupRazor...he offers a begginers type strop and some others reasonably priced. I've never tried one personally but heard nothing but good things.

  3. #3
    May your bone always be well buried MickR's Avatar
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    I was going to suggest that you just make a simple strop for yourself, but I have to ask the question, why are your bench (paddle?) strops all nicked up? I ask this only to make the friendly suggestion that you may need to work out your stropping technique. Spine should lead the stroke on a strop weather it be a knife, or more importantly, a razor. I was going to offer to cut you a strap of cowhide but since you've got some, you'll be alright.


    Mick

  4. #4
    Senior Member dnullify's Avatar
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    I've never used those strops for my razors. they're all nicked up from learning to strop my knives, and when i attempted to polish a 8" kukri.

    i'm not sure how a home made hanging strop will turn out, as it's relatively heavy leather. Also, same no handle/clamp problem. I'll look up ruprazor.

  5. #5
    May your bone always be well buried MickR's Avatar
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    Go out and get yourself a couple of 2" Dee rings...Bigger if you can find them. A simple way to make the strop would be to cut the width you want, if it is 3" and you have a couple of 2" dees, cut the ends down to put through the dee's and rivet the leather together. You might have to soak the ends of the leather in water to make them pliable, but you'll have a servicable strop for the cost of a couple of Dee rings, about 6 to 8 rivets and a little elbow grease. Take about 15 mins once you got the bits together.


    Mick

    P.S. I have four Kukhri knives. Three are military patterns with two of those the hefty WWI No.2 pattern with a 15" blade and weighs about 1.5 KG. The sort used for a back up weapon when the rifle ran out of bullets and you needed to suddenly decapitate someone.
    Last edited by MickR; 01-17-2011 at 07:41 AM. Reason: P.S.

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  7. #6
    Senior Member dnullify's Avatar
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    What do i do about the handle?

    i'll have to figure out rivets too. But it'll probably still end up like the rup-razor, if not longer. i'd just have to mark out a smooth strip in the flank. leather is surprisingly inconsistent.

    on the other hand there's a variety of 2 1/2" x 23" fromm strops on amazon for ~$31. I'm not sure what the difference between them are, but are they any good? if i can keep my new-found "RAD" under control with one or two $10 razors and self-hone them, $31 strop shouldn't hurt.

    Also, what performance difference is there with bench strops? i hold my hanging strop extremely taught anyway. whatever can keep my edge keen i suppose.

  8. #7
    May your bone always be well buried MickR's Avatar
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    The Dee ring is your handle in this case. Otherwise cut yourself a handle shape out of the leather and rivet that on one end or the other. I'm only making this suggestion to save you a few dollars. You can buy one if you like. I can't tell you what the cheap ones are like, you'll just have to take that adventure for yourself.


    Mick

    P.S. I've only ever had and used Hanging strops, so I don't know what a paddle strop is like. I assume it's just an awkward version of the hanging strop though...
    Last edited by MickR; 01-17-2011 at 07:22 AM. Reason: Another P.S.

  9. #8
    Senior Member dnullify's Avatar
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    ah, i get it.
    I think i'll give that a shot. i'll go find that flank tomorrow and see how thick the leather is.

    in any case, is Fromm a decent brand name?

  10. #9
    May your bone always be well buried MickR's Avatar
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    I'm not certain of the facts, but I've heard the Fromm strops are put out by the Illinois Strop co. I've also heard a lot of good things about the RupRazor strops, Filly(?). Both brands would be a decent starter strop I think, but I don't have personal experience of either to say what is fact and what is B.S. Maybe someone who owns one of these brands can pipe up with a better opinion.


    Mick

  11. #10
    May your bone always be well buried MickR's Avatar
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    Here's another idea for a simple strop that may be a little easier; Cut a strip of leather the width you want (I'll assume 3" for the argument) and assuming the dee's you can get are 2" (dee's are preferred over rings for the straight bar section that gives an even tension on the strop) about 1" in from the ends cut a V a half inch into the edge of the strop on each side. Your dee ring will sit in the slots once you work it into place (wet the leather if it is thick and inflexable). Fold the leather over and rivet across. If the leather has some thickness to it I would suggest the ease of Chicago screws...I would suggest them for the rivets if you can get the shorter ones if the leather is thinner too.
    A drill will do for hole making and home made rivets can be done with some shortened flat head nails and a few washers/spacers and a ball peen hammer. If using home made rivets you can do away with the drilled holes and just nail the buggers through.


    Mick
    Last edited by MickR; 01-17-2011 at 01:06 PM. Reason: Spelling

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